Thread: Newbie question on hone use

Originally Posted by zib

Cutting into 2in wide pieces would be more practical. However, That is a rare site, and me, personally, I wouldn't cut it. Also, any work done on a narrow hone, like 1.5 can be done on a 3 inch wide hone...It's personal preference....

I would never try it myself, and if there were a high chance of it cracking or it being quite delicate and likely to fragment; I would not do it. I have never cut a coticule, but if it could be done at low risk then I'd do it in Jeff's case. Otherwise, I wouldn't chance it. Not being in that position with a big old coti I never use, I dont have that problem thank the lord!

Originally Posted by WineGuyD

A. I'm sooo jealous!!! And it looks totally homogeneous...isn't that desirable?

B. Why don't you use the 9x4?

D. By using the narrower hone, don't you run the risk of getting an uneven hone from using an X pattern?

After our discussion I'm resolved to keeping the stone but I have not yet heard back from BSS and I'd simply like to know if he has another one with less blemishes to swap. THANKS!

Lastly, if I were to add just one more stone to extend the range of options I have with regards to managing my razors...what would you recommend?

To answer your questions, the non-homogenous blotches and veins add to the beauty, in my opinion. The largest stone is particularly fine and comes from Michael Poe's personal use collection -- he picked it out himself from the ones he gets from Belgium

I don't generally use the 9x4 because it's so large and valuable that I'm worried about someone knocking it off the vanity in the bathroom where I do my honing. So I end up keeping my "cheaper" stones in the bathroom, and those are the ones that get the most use.

The x-stroke is actually better to use for honing, because it creates a bit of a micro-tooth pattern in the metal at the edge. More experienced guys can tell you more about this, but I think the x-stroke actually works better

Originally Posted by WineGuyD

Ah! but I have a Clauss USMC thats frowning and needs a good touch up or possibly a bevel set. Wouldn't the wider stone be helpful for the frown?

In the case of a true frowning blade, (Wider at the heel, than the toe)
It really needs to be repaired if possible, I hate to say it, but breadknifed.
And yes, in that case, I'd have a 3in wide hone for sure. Work like that, I'd use a DMT. Once the blade is straight again, true...You'd start from scratch...Reset the bevel and go from there. I've never done any work like that, but I know where to get advice....!

Here's what the wiki says: http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi..._damaged_blade

Originally Posted by WineGuyD

Just ordered this 8"x3" coticule/BBW combo which will arrive in a day or two. The last time I honed a blade was my cub scout knife 40 years ago!

I currently have a Wosty Pipe razor and a Clauss USMC, that Lynn recently honed, and are my day to day shaves which at some point I would like to be able to touch up on my own. I also have two more Clauss razors that need to have the bevels reset and then finished as well.

I've been studying the hone wiki for days and I'm frankly overwhelmed with the amount of details and info posted so I thought a seasoned member could distill it down for me.

Question one: Is this cot/BBW combo enough to set the bevels AND bring the the razors to shave ready keeness? (assuming I know what I'm doing)

Question two: I'm going to order a slurry stone, does creating a slurry on this combo stone do any damage or make the surface uneven? Should I have a separate set just for slurry?

Any advise on the minimum stones(types) needed to achieve the above would be welcome.

Since you have to ask the first answer is to focus on maintaining the edge
and leave setting the bevel for later or for others.

You have a good looking water stone. Use it a bit like a barber hone
to start. When the edge Lynn put on it begins to fade run some
water on your hone, apply a bit of lather and give the razor about
ten smooth deliberate honing strokes. Rinse the stone; rinse, dry
and strop the razor.

Depending on the razor you might need to do this once or twice a month.
You might want to do it once a week... if so use less strokes.

If you coticule is a slow one you can wet the coticule and rub it
with the rubbing stone and then give the razor some strokes....
drip a bit of water, some more strokes, drip some more water
some more strokes rinse the coticule and finish with some very
light smooth strokes.

Use the rubbing stone to speed up the hone, rinse off the slurry
for the final finish, lather makes light strokes easy.

Once in a while lap the coticule flat. Coarse or Medium wet dry paper
on a flat surface will do it. For a home shaver once the hone
is flat you may only need to re-lap it flat a couple times a year.
If you are not working under running water only lap
a little bit then rinse the wet-dry paper and the hone.
You will find that a coticule is soft and laps quickly.

As for the razors that need their bevel reset. Start with
a marker test and hone on your coticule with a light slurry.
If the magic marker ink gets honed off the bevel is likely
good. Dilute the slurry stepwise each ten strokes so that
at about 40 strokes you have clear water for the last ten.
Strop and shave test.

Try this a couple times and if it does not sharpen the razor
to a good shave send it out. The cost of a set of good 1K
grading down to your coticule hones for setting a bevel is possibly
more than a couple trips to a honemaster via USPS or UPS
so take advantage of the pile of rocks a honemaster has.

Your coticule looks like a good one (OK hard to tell by looking).
Act as if it is a good one and a dozen light monthly/ weekly
strokes with a bit of lather or clear water should keep the
blade smooth and sharp almost forever.

A LIGHT TOUCH....