Thread: How to use Coticule.

I took two of my Coti's and used my thumbnail to put a scratch on the surface of each one just like the booklet mentioned and Sham and I have talked about after reading the booklet.
The one on the left is softer and a fast cutter. When I scratched it I had a bit of powder on my thumb. The right one is a good deal harder but still scratched a little. So, the one on the left does well with Sham's method with the right one being more of a finisher but you can do water only especially with one like the one on the left. You may ask which vein they come from---I couldn't care less-- only about it abilities to do what I want.
Yes the bevel is set when I go to the Coti.

Originally Posted by northpaw

Don't know if mine is vintage, but it's super pink.

(next to a much yellower slurry stone)

I have one like the pink one and it makes its own slurry from the first stroke. Its super fast. Great cutter the other side is hybrid so it does't slurry at all

Originally Posted by life2short1971

I have one like the pink one and it makes its own slurry from the first stroke. Its super fast. Great cutter the other side is hybrid so it does't slurry at all

Interesting - mine really doesn't want to release slurry at all.

This morning, I tried sets of 30 down-and-back strokes with my finger on the blade and literally as much pressure as I'd ever put on a razor. It still didn't produce any visible slurry, but it sharpened very quickly. I started backing off on the pressure after the first few sets, and once the edge felt really good with the TPT, I rinsed the stone and finished with a couple dozen regular X strokes with very light pressure. Shaved like a champ!

I'll definitely be going this route from now on (water-only after I've set the bevel). If nothing else, it's much more simple than constantly adding drops of water, trying to keep the slurry from being pushed over the edge of the stone, etc.

I looked again and the grains different in the one I was think of. My mistake

Northpaw--There you go sounds like you got it--good for you!

i'm going set a bevel on a 1k naniwa. i'd normaly go to coti with slurry dilution. instead i will go with just plain old water and do plenty of half strokes then cleasn hone fresh water and finish with 50 light x strokes. see what happens. and post back. is the right and what sham is wanting us to try .
i spoke to a barber in austrailia last year and he said this was how they were taught. To set bevel on slightly coarser stone and finish on lather with a milk stone which was as we no a coticule.

gary

Originally Posted by gary haywood

i'm going set a bevel on a 1k naniwa. i'd normaly go to coti with slurry dilution. instead i will go with just plain old water and do plenty of half strokes then cleasn hone fresh water and finish with 50 light x strokes. see what happens. and post back. is the right and what sham is wanting us to try .
i spoke to a barber in austrailia last year and he said this was how they were taught. To set bevel on slightly coarser stone and finish on lather with a milk stone which was as we no a coticule.

gary

That is about the best I can figure. If you go by the OP's first post, the OP just says to use the coticule with water. I took that as using the coticule as a finisher. Further down the thread, it is mentioned that the razor is expected to have a bevel set before using the coticule or by using the coticule, your choice. Even further down the thread, it is mentioned that the coticule should auto-slurry with just water and honing strokes. It is also mentioned that the coticule should be washed off before performing a few light finished strokes.

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

I did answer to your question on b$b basically do this.
start to hone your razor usually way.
i would never use coticule to set bevel but if you like to do so or have tried dilucot method etc go head try this.
use water and start to hone. simple . you will have slurry formation approximately after 20-30 strokes(there is exceptions which is very high quality coticules out there wont form slurry according to holli4pirating).
then keep it going until you get the edge you like. in your last strokes clean up the stone and make 10 light strokes just with water. check the time how long this will take compare to dulicote method.gl

Good luck, let us know how it works.

Edit: Are half-strokes assumed to be used before the finishing stage, or are x-strokes assumed? Is pressure varied through the sharpening stage, or should it be kept constant? Also, if the stone generates slurry through friction with the razor, how is it different than using a slurry stone wear-wise? Is there less slurry generated this way, or would it be the same as if using the slurry stone?

i just tryed it and after bevel was set on a 1k yes i did half strokes on water the trouble is my coticules do not generate any auto slurry. i can say the edge was tpt sharp but i'm not expecting this to be a great shaver. the thing is using slurry diluting and finishing on water i can onestly say its morer enjoyable and it does work for more most. i could do 500 laps even a thousand using back and forth strokes in no time. if i was doing normal x stroke i think it would do my head in. remember i nuster do just that i ended up with neck ache it was bloody hard work. with the back and forth strokes it realy is a piece of cake. i've always noticed finishing on water puts that very sticky feel on the edge as in thats when i notice tpt realy maxes out on water alone . i think some guys carn't get there head round doing 300 to 700 laps etc it does sound crazy. but realy like i say its so quik with back and forth x strokes , then finish on light strokes. i notice lynn starts out with some pressure and finish with 10 light laps when he on 1k and 3k/5k. then he goes light in polishing stages. i have tryed and i have tryed this last year also and the shave shaved but skipped a little i will test and say how it goes.

gary

For a finished edge, I've been using just water, just letting the slurry build on it's own, and just keeping the stone wet and not flooded... basically the method hi_bud_gl outlines.

The edges I get from this process do not pass any 'traditional' tests per se ... HHT, etc...

But I prefer these edges over other stones I currently own because the edges consistently hone up extremely sharp and smooth.

This whole time .... I thought that's how the coticule was supposed to be used.

I do agree w/ JimmyHAD as well. This method fits my style of honing ... if I may be so bold as to claim I have a style.

Ignorance is bliss, I guess haha.

Messing with a number of coticules, using the highest amount of pressure I feel comfortable with in honing a razor, I cannot generate slurry using a Wostenholm pipe razor with water only. As far as using slurry on a coticule, I like it. I feel I get better results on a razor with the bevel already set, beginning with a medium to light slurry, diluting as I progress, and ending finishing on clear water.

Doesn't mean to me that I am right and Sham is wrong. Each of us has to try different methods and see what works for us. When I first came to SRP the big argument was over pyramid versus progressive honing. Turned out both sides have their advocates and both methods work. I guess it is the same with the slurry versus the clear water fellows.

We can debate this stuff and try different stones, different methods and that is part of what makes it fun. Sooner or later we find what agrees with us and stick with what works for us. My take on it anyway.