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Thread: Shapton Ceramic on Tempered Glass or somthing else? Please give advice!!!

  1. #41
    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    lol yeah its natural but its also Chinese so does that still count? Most thing that i buy that are made in china fall apart hehe

    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    you still have ways to go in terms of HAD, there is coticules, Eschers, Jnats, CF and so on.
    my girlfriend just saw that and said "No I Don't" lol time will tell
    Last edited by Brighty83; 07-14-2011 at 12:51 PM.
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  2. #42
    Senior Member Lesslemming's Avatar
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    its natural but its also Chinese so does that still count?
    I think the chinese region still counts as part of the nature, so yes the C12k is a natural stone
    But you want to be carefull lapping this thing.
    I lapped mine for about 3-4 hours but it came out pretty good.
    You want to achieve an extra glossy, glass-mirror-like surface on it.
    That´s where it performs best, edge-wise (in my opinion)

  3. #43
    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    what did you use to lap yours?

  4. #44
    Senior Member Lesslemming's Avatar
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    That´s the tough part.
    I used 400-800 wet dry sandpaper until it was moderatly flat.
    Then I took out a credit card sized belgian blue and rubbed it against the chinese for hours.

    You might consider using your barber hone for this task of final finish

  5. #45
    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    i have a small 4x1.4x.4" Arkansas from eBay, would that work? its too small for honing really if it would work it would be great

    I also have some small DMT stones they are around 180-240, 600-800, 800-1200 grit, the actual grit isnt recorded
    Last edited by Brighty83; 07-14-2011 at 01:21 PM.

  6. #46
    Senior Member Str8Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lesslemming View Post
    Hi Paul, I am by no means a Honemeister, but maybe I can answer your question.
    I do not know what exactly you mean with fragile. If you drop a Shapton GS to the stone floor,
    it might eventually crack. Just like most stones would.
    The Glasstones are ceramic bond to tempered glass.
    Tempered Glass is used for windshields in cars, as far as I know.
    It is much more durable than normal glass and will not shatter that easily.
    The Glass is used as a backup, since the 5mm of Ceramic alone would be too fragile.
    So I would say in normal use they are not more prone to shattering than most others.

    Since I own both the 16k and the 30k GS maybe I can tell a little something about these, too.
    The GS 16k puts on a nice mirror after a good 8.000 Stone.
    Only under high magnification, a very faint and homogenous scratch pattern is evident.
    It´s so soft, you could almost say it is scratch free. To the naked eye you see only a dark 3D luster.

    The Edge it is capable of producing is straight and keen (high magnification).
    Only very faintly some detorriations can be present at ~120-200times magnification.
    The HHT is positive and a shave comfortably possible. Yet I find the 16k just a tad harsh.

    The 30k does not put things on a whole new level. It does not.
    It also doesn´t improve the Edge worth 3 times the price of a 16k.
    It is an object of prestige! But when you have it, you will eventually come to love it.
    I have a Wacker Jahresmesser 2008 as well as an Iwasaki Kamisori sharpened on the Shapton System
    upt to 30.0000. Both show a perfectly dark 3D luster to the naked eye,
    with even less of a scratch pattern under high magnification.

    The edge seems not to become simply sharpened. Under magnification you can see,
    the little detorriations will not get entirely lost, but somehow smoothened out.
    The edges of these little detorriations and nicks cease to be frayed and take on some kind of haloish shine.
    That`s something that happens with a 0.5µ diamond strop on felt, too.

    The 30k needs a very good technique, otherwise you will not benefit from it
    Vielen Dank!!! My current go to set up is: Norton 1K/4K/8K/Naniwa 12K/CrOx on balsa and felt/White paste on same. I also have diamond spray down to .0125 Micron for knives and I have been trying them out on a wedge for fun. My gut says on a full hollow most of my diamond would make the edge to fragile for a fullhollow but maybe a wedge would be different.
    I used to live im/nah Kaiserslautern. I miss it often. great food/bier! Close to everything in Europe by plane,train or auto.
    Thanks and Prost
    Paul
    "We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm."

  7. #47
    Senior Member Lesslemming's Avatar
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    Gerne geschehen, Paul. Die Welt ist klein!

    0.0125µm is extremely fine. Why not try your full hollows with 0.5µm on felt? I made the experience that this suites most blades just fine.

    @Brighty:
    I would give the arkansas a try for finishing the surface of your Chinese hone!

  8. #48
    Senior Member Str8Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lesslemming View Post
    Gerne geschehen, Paul. Die Welt ist klein!

    0.0125µm is extremely fine. Why not try your full hollows with 0.5µm on felt? I made the experience that this suites most blades just fine.
    It is isn't it?? I once ran into a high school friend on a Frankfurt dance floor!!!
    I actually use/like the CrOx better then the Diamond at 0.5µm. It just "feels better" to me.
    "We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm."

  9. #49
    Senior Member Lesslemming's Avatar
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    There is nothing wrong with Cr2O3! I often switch between Cr2O3, diamond and Fe2O3
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  10. #50
    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    Are there any honemasters on here in Australia.. ?

    I wouldn't mind sending them my ice bear stone for a review - see if it is just me or if they are just bad stones (if they are up to it)

    In Australia they are worth $120 and they are one of the few fine stones you can commonly get here.

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