Thread: Jnat buyers remorse: please help me ;'(

Originally Posted by danielghofrani

Thank you very much mainaman. yes I will do that! should I do light strokes on the jnat?

yes you are polishing the edge so light strokes.

OK tommorow I will get honing w/ super light strokes and shave leg hair (all my arm hair is gone today!!) and check every 20 laps.

I know what you mean man, I have no arm hair left anymore either!!

M

Can I ask why you decided to lap the Ozuku inthe first place? Was it not flat?

Going along with mainaman, the fellow who told me to use the higher grit naturals on "sharp" razors meant sharp at the 12 or 16k level, before going to the exotic natural. Coming to it from an 8k will work but will take more strokes on that fine a stone. If that is what the stone is.

Originally Posted by ZethLent

Can I ask why you decided to lap the Ozuku inthe first place? Was it not flat?

it was flat but it was not shiny.
I read from a document from japanesenaturalstones.com that you should lap it until it is shiny.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Going along with mainaman, the fellow who told me to use the higher grit naturals on "sharp" razors meant sharp at the 12 or 16k level, before going to the exotic natural. Coming to it from an 8k will work but will take more strokes on that fine a stone. If that is what the stone is.

yes yes, I see thank you for the information that clears a few things.

but I assume this gentleman who told you to do 12k or 16k before jumping to lv5+ jnat probably meant to go on the tomo nagura or water only (or maybe koma which I don't have and I don't know how fine it is)

because I feel starting from Botan or Tenjo nagura will make my edge duller than I started with. when I set the bevel with Norton 1k it could shave arm hair rather easily, although the edge looked very scratchy under the loupe. but I went honing on the Botan and refreshed slurry a few times and then on Tenjo. I did not check the sharpness on the Botan but after the Tenjo the edge looked much less scratchy but could not shave body hair any longer.

also I noticed under the loupe that the scratches from 1k were very directional but the small scratches from nagura stones were not so linear.

I am not very knowledgeable on j-nats at all so mainaman can help you with the fine points there. I wouldn't know a botan from a tenjo if I fell over one. The fellow who gave me the advice I mentioned was referring to eschers specifically but I imagine the principle would apply to a very fine j-nat.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I am not very knowledgeable on j-nats at all so mainaman can help you with the fine points there. I wouldn't know a botan from a tenjo if I fell over one. The fellow who gave me the advice I mentioned was referring to eschers specifically but I imagine the principle would apply to a very fine j-nat.

OK thank you very much. I don't know that much about either but your logic makes sense to me.

I haven't been able to look at my edges under a loupe (perhaps that will be my next purchase...) but it is my understanding that, especially with slurry, japanese natural stones leave a sandblasted finish rather than uniform scratch marks, and then with plain water will leave a mirror finish. Meaning that unless you have the experience with japanese naturals, looking at the edge with an eye towards synthetic scratch marks won't tell you much about how the bevel/edge is progressing.