Thread: Jnat buyers remorse: please help me ;'(

I forgot to mention I have an Ozuku kiita which are meant to be of the softer range of the ozuku's (correct me if I'm wrong on this) and its still a very hard hone that produces edges that require little in terms of pushing pressure while shaving.

The method I mentioned might work with your ozuku as well.

have fun

@Alx:

yes that makes sense thank you.

You look great by the way


@justalex:

yes thank you, mine is an Ozuku kiita as well but I am told that it is a very hard Ozuku and it is harder than other typical kiita stones (asagis are usually harder than kiitas)

I will try your honing method soon.

All the best
Dan

What I suggest you do is find your closeness/comfort level and create a repeatible honing method what ever that might be. good luck, it's all fun. Alex[/QUOTE]

+1 for that comment, you have to find out what works for you then just repeat it over and over. When i first got my thuri i was unimpressed with the results, then i found the method that works for me and ever since then nothing but buttery smooth shavings!!

Going along with what Zeth and Alex said, in synthetics I only have the chosera 1k, norton 4 and 8k so I always go to my escher at the 8k level despite the wisdom of my friend. That friend is Sham BTW. I sometimes go back to the fundamentals that Randy taught me and shave at the 8k level to make sure I've for sure gotten the edge up to speed and ready to go to the escher , or sometimes a coticule. I would advise you to do the same every so often. Just to be sure you've gotten the foundation right and can get a comfortable shave at the 8k level. Then you can go to your high grit natural, or synthetic, with the confidence that the edge is ready for it. I also like Alex's description of the comfort of the 'slightly convex bevel' provided by the natural. I suppose that is why I enjoy the shaves I get from my escher or coticule so much.

Thanks for the info. yes, a while back I could not shave off the 8k and I thought the solution is going up the grit ladder. I bought myself a cnat with inconsistent results (but it worked because of extra laps). and finished on pastes helped too. but now I can see the true potential of 4k and 8k grits (4k easily shaves arms, 8k is sufficient to shave face without tugging.

I am very interested to know more about the convex bevel. what is the difference between a convext bevel and a rounded edge? I know that rounded edge is caused by pushing into the strop and it is a bad thing.

I gave up trying to prevent people from buying $500 stones a long time ago. I'm surprised there aren't more posts like yours floating around though. No matter what the stone is I think the key to honing is to use negative pressure. That is to prevent the full weight of the blade from contacting the stone and to use a maximum x pattern, that is with as much vertical stroke as possible. This combination produces the absolute LEAST amount of honing action, per lap. Then, and only then, can you sneak up on the sharpest edge, one stroke (lap) at a time.

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

I gave up trying to prevent people from buying $500 stones a long time ago. I'm surprised there aren't more posts like yours floating around though. No matter what the stone is I think the key to honing is to use negative pressure. That is to prevent the full weight of the blade from contacting the stone and to use a maximum x pattern, that is with as much vertical stroke as possible. This combination produces the absolute LEAST amount of honing action, per lap. Then, and only then, can you sneak up on the sharpest edge, one stroke (lap) at a time.

Thank you very much that is what I have been doing with synthetics and it has worked very well so far. but for this new jnat it has not worked yet.


I have not tried polishing an 8k sharp edge on the jnat yet (will be doing later today) but negative pressure did not work with nagura progression.

part of the reason is that I know when to proceed in the synthetic stones, when it shaves arm hair like a pocket knife I go from 1k to 4k, when it shaves arm hair easily I go from 4k to 8k and I finish with "negative pressure" that you mentioned it gives shaving edge.

I don't know the parallel in jnats though, I don't know how sharp the edge should be before I move from Botan to Tenjo, etc..

tonight I will be trying to take an already shave ready 8k edge on the jnat with water only to see if I can polish it. (no nagura for now) once I learn the finishing properties of the stone I will move on to playing with nagura stones.

Thanks
Dan

A tomonagura in my experience should be softer than the hone
on which it is used. Harder ones will scratch the stone, so I find
this amateuristic by the seller to provide you with a harder
tomonagura.

First if your jnat still has scratches, remove them. Using loose
grit on a piece of float glass is very easy. Or flatten your synthetics
with your diamond stone and then use them to flatten the jnat. Flatten
them often so you are sure your stone is getting flattened correctly.

Try this. Do your synthetic procedure again up to your finest
stone. Then on your Jnat use the finest nagura slurry. Keep
working on this slurry, dilute it slowly so you end up with very
little slurry. This should give you a good edge.

Keep us updated.

Sharpman

Are there any shining lines on your stone? Shiny lines could indicate
a toxic line.

You dont need to remove all scratches from your stone it is just waist of the stone money in the sink !

For Tomo Nagura i providet Lv 4 where his stone is Lv 5+, it is hard to make slurry from some hard Naguras, but that what many of Jnat users want, in many case i also recommend to get softer Nagura instead but many users get angry and demand same hardnes Nagura as they hone it self.

Try to make just one grove in your Tomo nagura it will help biding a slurry but it will be from your main stone and not from your Nagura

Originally Posted by danielghofrani

I am very interested to know more about the convex bevel. what is the difference between a convext bevel and a rounded edge? I know that rounded edge is caused by pushing into the strop and it is a bad thing.

Daniel
One very instructive thread from last year by Dr.Naka helped to

http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...-part-3-a.html

solidified the notion of a convex bevel in my mind. We are not talking edge work now, but the flat surface of the bevel. If you did not already know Iwasaki-san was a Sanjo blacksmith who advanced the kamisori craft to new levels with his skill and scholarship. Iwasaki-san wrote a pamphlet that has been studiously translated by Jim Rion and can be found by following his blog and website.

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Alx

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