Thread: Using an Escher

Hi Group! How are you?

Guess what? I got my first Escher and have no idea how to use it. It's 5x2.5 and in great condition.



I tried searching for this info, but haven't found much, and what I did find is a bit inconsistent. So I thought for my benefit, and perhaps others, you guys with experience could share a bit for the benefit of a noob.

So as I understand it: they're not all quite the same; they basically just put a nice finish on an already good shaving edge; With slurry they might increase sharpness a little; you really only need to do 20ish laps.

So the main question I have is number of strokes. Let's say I come off an 8k synthetic waterstone. Normally I'd go onto my coticule, (which is smaller than my Escher), and do anywhere up to 2 or 3 hundred strokes. (My coti takes a while to get going, but once it does...).
But I notice most people only do a few laps on an Escher. Why is that? What happens if you do 100 laps on one? What happens if you do 50 with slurry, and 200 with water? Will is start dulling the blade? Is it just a waste of time?
What happens if you apply a little pressure?

Obviously the easiest answer for me is to just experiment. And I will. But I'm a humble shaver and only use a couple of razors, so I don't want to start fooling around on them. I guess I should bite the bullet and buy a few for testing purposes.
However, it was an expensive stone, and I'm a little impatient; I'd like to get the best out of it as soon as possible. So any tips or info you could share would be really appreciated.

Cheers

As a general rule you always want to find the lowest number of strokes you need for a maximum edge taking off minimum metal. Your coticule must be a very slow cutter. It depends upon the razor you are using but I think somewhere between 30-60 strokes (start out with some slurry and apply very little pressure) is the sweetspot for a genuine Escher which it appears you now have. I would test shave after 30 (water down after 10, only water last 10) total strokes. If this makes the edge to crisp to your liking then keep a small amount of slurry in your final strokes instead of water only. You want your razor to be near DFS before coming to the Escher so that it is doing what it does best- final polish. Perhaps now your Coticule will still have a place prior to the Escher but not be used as 'intensely' as it is now. Congratulations!

Once I have the razor shaving well at the 8k level I generate a light slurry and do say 10 to 20 X strokes and see how the edge feels. I just keep on with that until it feels like it is ready for me to strop and try HHT. If I get it to where I want it I try shaving. If it is "there" I put it away and go onto the next. If it ain't it is back to the hone. How many strokes depends on the razor. Sometimes I don't generate a slurry, just do the thing with water only. Like you mentioned. Experiment. Nice thing about having an Escher with a label, it comes with instructions for use. Here is a page out of Moler's Barber Manual on the Escher type stones, says you cannot overhone. Have fun with that stone.

Originally Posted by 1holegrouper

Your coticule must be a very slow cutter.

Yes! And yes again!! With slurry it cuts very fast, and is great with low level edges, but, honestly, finishing on it is not fun. But the size also plays a part. I really should get an 8x3.

So that is what's kind of prompting my Escher question.

Originally Posted by Frankenstein

Yes! And yes again!! With slurry it cuts very fast, and is great with low level edges, but, honestly, finishing on it is not fun. But the size also plays a part. I really should get an 8x3.

So that is what's kind of prompting my Escher question.

It will be fun to experiment. Things like letting the Escher hone go 'dry' for the last few strokes or even going back to the Coti for a few water only strokes to bring back the Coti feel but retain the Escher keenness can sometimes work. I don't think there is any one method that is a golden standard out there since other factors than # of strokes impact this equation as well.

That's a very nice Escher indeed. Congratulations. Escher's do vary a bit from stone to stone, but not much. Basically, they're the only consistent finisher.
You have differences from vein to vein, B/G, Y/G, etc...

Pretty much what Jimmy said, Have the blade at the 8k level, Generate a light slurry on the Escher, do about 20 lapps, rinse and repeat...You can do 10 and 10 to start. I always like to finish on plain water. YMMV.

And to piggy back on this, what's the recommended way to raise a slurry on a non-Escher Thuringian that doesn't have a slurry stone? Thanks!

Originally Posted by TimS

And to piggy back on this, what's the recommended way to raise a slurry on a non-Escher Thuringian that doesn't have a slurry stone? Thanks!

A 1200 DMT works quite nicely

Originally Posted by Frankenstein

Yes! And yes again!! With slurry it cuts very fast, and is great with low level edges, but, honestly, finishing on it is not fun. But the size also plays a part. I really should get an 8x3.

So that is what's kind of prompting my Escher question.

I want a 3" wide escher as well, but AFAIK they did not make them in that width

Originally Posted by mainaman

I want a 3" wide escher as well, but AFAIK they did not make them in that width

I have a Barber's Delight (Escher) 5 1/2"x2" and a couple of earlier Eschers that are 5"x2 1/2". I've had a few come and go that were 7"x1 1/2" and a couple 8 or so x 1 3/4" or so.

IIRC, never had one, the 10" is 2" wide. It seems that Escher, AFAIK, made stock sizes with no oddball variations. At least in their regular production.