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Thread: To tape or not to tape
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08-20-2016, 11:25 PM #21
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Thanked: 1520k touch up? 12k touch up or 8k touch up? All the above? Someone suggested a couple passes on a finisher would remove the taped bevel as it affects the bevel so little.
Perhaps this is more controversial than I expected. Perhaps it's a lot more to do with a persons perfection level and there is no exact answer.
I certainly agree if you want to protect the spine for whatever your reason it's the way to go.
I don't expect honeing through to 20k with tape then try to "touch up" with a 20k without is the way to go. If your method is to hone to 8k then you probably won't be too put off. If your method is to tape for bevel set then not tape to the end, you're not evil and going to hell for all eternity.
In my, admittedly limited, estimation and my satisfaction level. Tape is a bother. Necessary at times to be sure. My attempt with old cheap tape left a mess on my blades and hones. Not the techniques fault. I also don't want to stop mid-shave to get out tape and scissors for a couple passes on an 8k and pasted strop.
I guess the point of my original question is... is there a reason other than spine wear and wonky blades to use tape? There is the micro bevel hone method so there's another resson.
Dunno, i guess it's each their own kinda thing.
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08-20-2016, 11:34 PM #22
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Thanked: 3225
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08-20-2016, 11:36 PM #23
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Thanked: 60Tape is a YMMV thing. I only use it on some customs where it is a blade clad with a softer material or full wedges for aesthetics. Once my razor is sharpened ( i.e. Bevel is set) I never ever have to set the bevel again unless I damage it. So what minimal wear occurs in that first set is barely noticeable. Razors that are wonky I used to work on by regrinding to improve the geometry. After a while I just decided to put my efforts in buying better razors moving forward.
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08-20-2016, 11:42 PM #24
Twice in posts you have mentioned stopping in mid-shave to touch up your razor. Do you only have 1 razor in your rotation? I have 3 currently in rotation, if one shows signs of discomfort or I simply don't like the feel,, I put it down, pick up the next straight in rotation, 12 passes on the strop, back in the shave, 20 seconds top. Why would I ever consider taping & refreshing a razor in mid shave?? unless you only have one razor.
I have tape of just about all brands, I can use each equally well, it doesn't matter how much the tape cost, if you have the right method.
This is me before I learned how to eat an Oreo Cookie,,, I do much better now.
Last edited by Hirlau; 08-21-2016 at 12:46 AM.
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08-21-2016, 12:04 AM #25
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Thanked: 3795All of the above.
Someone was wrong.
The tape/no tape issue is just a matter of geometry. A touch up requires that the edge makes contact with the hone and a "couple of passes on a finisher" will not remove a sufficient amount of steel from the bevels to bring the edge down to the hone.
Again, it is a matter of geometry and rate of steel removal. It really has nothing to do with a person's perfection level. There is no exact answer on number of strokes as it depends on the hone, the pressure used by the honer, the difference between the original and final edge angle, the hardness of the steel, the width of the bevels, and likely several more things I don't want to waste time thinking about.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Utopian For This Useful Post:
strangedata (08-22-2016)
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08-21-2016, 02:07 AM #26
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Thanked: 3215“Do you tape for touch up?”
Yup, just takes a second.
“Question, if you decide not to use the tape, the bevel would have to be reset?”
Yes, but you can easily reset it on a 12 or 8 k in 15-20 laps, you do not have to go to a 1k. Once the bevels are flat, it takes very little to change the angle or reset an edge.
Here is a thread where I removed a chip, and reset a bevel on a 12k Super Stone in about 80 circles and 206 laps, in about 20 minutes from start to finish. We’re talking bread knifed edge to remove a chip and full bevel set to finish. We are not talking about anything near that amount of work. (12k Chip Removal/Bevel Set).
Changing the angle, a couple degrees is much less. A 12k super stone is aggressive, an 8k, more so.
Probably take more than a couple laps, but the other day, I checked, reset a bevel from a jointed edge, and remove some microchips, less than 10 laps on a 12k Super Stone.
Yes, the razor, stone and amount of pressure will all play a part, but still, it is not a big a deal.
For micro bevels tape and 3-4 laps will put on a nice micro bevel on an edge.
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
Hirlau (08-21-2016), ScoutHikerDad (08-22-2016), strangedata (08-22-2016), xiaotuzi (08-27-2016)
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08-21-2016, 02:18 AM #27
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Thanked: 60I reset a bevel on a Hart which are honed taped from the makers with 40-50 laps on a 4K. Then went straight to my finisher. Worked a charm.
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08-21-2016, 02:21 AM #28
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Thanked: 3215And Hart’s, are harder than Chinese Trigonometry.
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08-26-2016, 06:03 PM #29
I have been honing for about 2 months now. So take what I say with a grain of salt...in other words I am not an expert. In an earlier "tape or no tape" thread I answered, "No, I don't tape." I have since changed my mind on this issue and now I tape as a normal process...for a variety of reasons. First, it prevents excessive wear. I hope to keep using my razors for years and if I sell or give them away I don't want to give away a razor with excessive wear. (I won't buy vintage razors with spine wear). Second, if I do a touch up I don't have to try and remember did I tape this razor...or was it the other one I taped? A piece of tape takes a matter of second to apply and it is easy to remove. Problem solved. Geometry will be consistent on all my razors.
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08-27-2016, 01:41 AM #30