Thread: To tape or not to tape

Let me start by saying that I am far from being an expert with the hones. There are very accomplished honers on both sides of the tape equation. I think that if you have a spine that isn't a perfect uniform thickness, you likely will need to hone without tape in order to remove steel from the spine, thus bringing the spine to one level plane. I check the blade to see if the spine thickness is uniform in relationship to the blade edge. This is done with the "tap & wobble test" ala Dr Matt on his YouTube video for bevel setting. I think if you have a spine with a lot of hone wear, but is of uniform thickness from heel to toe, you're better off using a layer of tape, so as to mimic the diameter of an un-honed spine and establish the optimal angle on the blade edge. However, after that long winded answer, if what ever you are doing is working, keep doing it.

“I think that if you have a spine that isn't a perfect uniform thickness, you likely will need to hone without tape in order to remove steel from the spine, thus bringing the spine to one level plane. I check the blade to see if the spine thickness is uniform in relationship to the blade edge. This is done with the "tap & wobble test".

Nope, that is just not true. Very few razors are perfectly straight it is a product of heat treatment, and it has been that way for hundreds of years. And for hundreds of years’ folks have honed these razors without having to slab side them on a Diamond hone.

I am always amazed to find, 150-year-old, well used Sheffield razors with no hone wear. So clearly it can and has been done.

Now, if you want to grind your razor flat, it is your razor go for it, but… it does not need to be done, to make it shave ready.

Did Glen see this thread yet.......LOL !!!!!

I use tape on a regular basis to modify the edge angles, but that's me... and I'm usually trying to *cheat* and get to a sharp edge faster.

Now... that said, the only time I feel tape is a MUST, is when you want to keep a gold washed spine pristine. There aren't that many razors out there with gold wash on the spine, but there ARE some. If you want to keep such a razor looking perty, then by all means, use tape. If you want to muck around with angles, trying to beat the honing clock like I do, by all means, use tape.... if you are just trying to keep things sharp and tape was not used in the beginning... it's up to you.

In case you are wondering what I do.... I just hone on a 1K hone, no tape, until I'm happy with the edge, then toss two layers of electrical tape on the spine and go straight to a finisher.... When the razor needs touching up, I'll put two layers of tape on it and use it on a finisher again... when that starts taking too long, I go back to the 1K and no tape until it's good and then back to the 2 layers of tape and finish hone. I'm not saying what I do is right, cuz it tain't, but it works well enough for me and I'm always in a hurry to do something else, so that's what I do with my daily shavers....

Regards

Christian

Definitely tape the spine when setting bevels and on a 1000 grit or lower so as to not cut a lot off the spine. When I hit the 4000/8000k range and up the tape comes off.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“I think that if you have a spine that isn't a perfect uniform thickness, you likely will need to hone without tape in order to remove steel from the spine, thus bringing the spine to one level plane. I check the blade to see if the spine thickness is uniform in relationship to the blade edge. This is done with the "tap & wobble test".

Nope, that is just not true. Very few razors are perfectly straight it is a product of heat treatment, and it has been that way for hundreds of years. And for hundreds of years’ folks have honed these razors without having to slab side them on a Diamond hone.

I am always amazed to find, 150-year-old, well used Sheffield razors with no hone wear. So clearly it can and has been done.

Now, if you want to grind your razor flat, it is your razor go for it, but… it does not need to be done, to make it shave ready.

Marty I have often thought that a lot f this wonky spine wear is not a product f the old timers that shaved with them , but the efforts of so many in later years grinding away trying to bring them to shiny new condition or the Dremel kings of today's Ebay vintage, old age new sellers out there, I have seen plenty of old razors that were just a mans shaver that showed nice even spine wear that wasn't to worn,, ok so tape or no tape, it's a preference, as I've said before, I have customs that I don't want to mess up the nice spine work that's on them, and the guy I pay to hone them thinks the same way. Tc

I always tape. Period.

I have enjoyed reading the various viewpoints in this thread. I learn so much from different perspectives. Tape, it seems, is a YMMV thing...

In some of the responses some of you say you use tape on the 1K stone and then remove it for the 4/8, 12K etc. stones. Is there a reason you do this? I can see the 1K is where you are removing the most metal...is it because above 1K the tape serves no real purpose? But is there any harm in leaving it on for all stages of honing? I leave mine on for the 1K and 3/8K stones...it just seems easier....and consistent.

Originally Posted by CrownCork

I reset a bevel on a Hart which are honed taped from the makers with 40-50 laps on a 4K. Then went straight to my finisher. Worked a charm.

My Hart is the only one that I do use tape on. Maybe someday I will do as you did.

Originally Posted by Chugach68

My Hart is the only one that I do use tape on. Maybe someday I will do as you did.

Only if you want an ethereal shave...