Okay I get the idea I think. I just read over pretty much the entirety of scienceofsharp.com.

The most interesting thing on that site by far is the interaction between micro-convexity and strop material. I've been thinking about this process in terms of mostly abrasion vs burnishing, or varying fineness of grit, but never considered the possibility that going straight from 8k to leather would create foil edges that don't happen if you use a pasted linen strop in-between due to the geometry and compression mechanics of the cloth as well as other characteristics of the material at play (I don't think the guy who wrote that website expected this either.)

It certainly makes me appreciate further your gift of the pasted linen strop, that seems key to the entire process now. Hopefully I don't have to worry about resetting bevels for the indefinite future regardless, so the details of how I do or do not set a bevel shouldn't come into play that significantly regardless.

I'm not getting further lessons as we're on the subject, I essentially traded my guy some metallurgical testing for an evening of lessons, so there will not be a progression into more advanced techniques. I believe I should be able to develop more advanced techniques on my own now that I have a more solid foundation.

One thing still on my mind: The photos on scienceofsharp seem to indicate that pastes stropping, past a certain point 10-30 laps in, does not change much, however, it still seems to me to be a rather aggressive thing to do on a frequent basis as part of a regular stropping routine. What micron CrOx paste did you use to make that strop, and do you find it necessary to use frequently?