Thread: Razor eating into hone

Originally Posted by KristofferBodvin

Ooops..ehrm.I do actually keep them in the same water.But, and I emphasise this.I thouroughly wash/rinse my stones before use..That said,yes it may have caused it to get softer.At least it seems to take less of an effort to lap it now.
(My chinese is now stored dry) Would you also recomend to store the norton dry? Its just out of convinience actually, as I hone a couple of hours every night ( to my wifes despair...)

I have always stored my single grit Norton's. Ch12K and other stones in water for several months at a time with no ill effect

Ok,good to know.

Originally Posted by KristofferBodvin

Ok Randy, now you got me a little confused.In your first post you wrote that you finished lapping with 1000 grit sandpaper. I tought the dmt1200 actually equalled 1200 grit...
Does that meen that you use an even finer grit than 1000 to finish lapping?
As for bevel setting I have just used norton 4000 until now.But I find that very timeconsuming with some of my ebay "treasures", thats why I tought the dmt1200 could have a dual use.I have however read some posts from you exp.honers claiming that it makes to deep scratcmarks.Do you think the shapton 1000 or 2000 would be better for this purpose?

I believe that the DMT 1200 leaves deeper scratch marks than a 1000 grit sandpaper or other stone. So if you follow the DMT 1200 with a 1000 grit sandpaper/stone then the scratch marks will be shallower. My personal routine is that when and if I lap a stone with a 1200 grit diamond hone then I follow that with a 1000 grit Norton stone. For the Ch12K& Escher&Coticule I may go to even higher grits. Thus far I seem to be standardizing on a Norton 1000 grit finish for all my hones.
I also wash and sometimes refresh the surface of my hones during honing. That keeps the swarf and airborne particles from contaminating the surface. I also use a pump spray bottle filled with water to keep the hone surface wet. The water in the "pond" gets contaminated with airborne particles and swarf very quickly.

Could you just take a trip to Norway,and teach me how to hone properly?

Some great advice Randy.

Probably the last question I have is how many roundtrip laps are you performing on the CH12K? and what grit hone are you using before that?

I always go from a Norton 8K to the CH12K. I usually perform 100 laps on the Ch12K. The first 25 laps or so seem to dull the edge a bit. The same thing happens when I use either an Escher or a Coticule.

The major unasked/answered question is just how sharp is the edge when you start on the CH12K. I will lay a bet that each of us has different starting sharpness levels so we will each have to determine the proper number of laps to perform on the CH12K or other finishing level hone.

My point is to suggest higher laps and see what happens to the edge. Test frequently.

Hope this helps,

I usally do a 100 laps to.then strop and test shave.I also move from the 8000,and I don't leave the 8000 until the edge really digs in to my thumb without any pressure.I have many times,due to the lack of sucsess on the chinese,moved back to the 8000.And then shaved from there.So I would say the edge is pretty sharp and smooth when I start on the chinese.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

I also wash and sometimes refresh the surface of my hones during honing. That keeps the swarf and airborne particles from contaminating the surface. I also use a pump spray bottle filled with water to keep the hone surface wet. The water in the "pond" gets contaminated with airborne particles and swarf very quickly.

Wow! I never considered airborne particles to be an issure. Most of my work is done in a class 1000 clean room. Maybe I should be honing in there!

Originally Posted by KristofferBodvin

You mention that you own other expencive naturals.I can imagine nagiamas,coticule, escher etc.Why do you still use the chinese as a finisher do you really find it that good?

Btw: I just tried something.I know the norton is to soft,but still.I gave the chinese a good rubbing.First with the 4000 and second with the 8000.It seemed to smooth it out somewhat.I'll try some honing later tonight.
Also: I find my chinese slurrystone actually make some pretty bad marks on the surface...

I guess I use different hones for different moods more than for different razors. I do not consider myself a sufficient expert, or perhaps competent, honer to be able to adequately judge which razor is best honed with which hone. If I'm not satisfied with the shave test, sometimes I'll switch to a different polishing stone for fine tuning just for the heck of it even though it's just as likely that more laps on the original stone might have accomplished the same thing.

You really should not be getting scratch marks from your slurry stone. Maybe you have a bad piece of grit embedded in it. Try re-lapping the slurry stone's surface, either using the original side or another side.

Originally Posted by Utopian

Wow! I never considered airborne particles to be an issure. Most of my work is done in a class 1000 clean room. Maybe I should be honing in there!

I used to leave my water "pond" without a cover. Wow! the stuff that was floating on the surafce was very surprising.

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

What do you use to raise a slurry? Any natural or synthetic slurry stone with less than the grit size of the chinese stone won't help - but I'd guess you use your DMT, which doesn't leave particles so should be fine, apart from scratching the surface of the stone.

Hi gents,

I scratched my DMT. I tried re-lapping it, but the scratches remained there.
Do I need to worry?

Thanks