Thread: Need diagnostic help...

Originally Posted by joshearl

should I start out doing pyramids, or should I just work on the 4000 stone for a while and then start pyramids?

You should always evaluate the razor before you do anything. Some might even just need stropping. Once it's evaluated you can determine how much work it needs. If it's dull, jump into your pyramids. If it's almost there go right to the 8K, do a few strokes and test again.

I gave the slipstones a try last night and met with mixed results. I lapped them on 600-grit sandpaper and glass, then I did 40 laps with the 4000 stone and 30 with the 8000. Then I went through the aggressive pyramid once and stropped 30 laps. (I used X-strokes throughout.)

Before I started, the razor (which I'd beveled on 2000 grit sandpaper) could shave my arm hair, although not easily. After I finished it didn't even want to do that. I did look at the edge under my microscope, and it looks much more polished and even. So I guess I'm heading in the right direction. I tried a few shaving strokes this morning and it didn't do much except scrape off lather.

Tonight maybe I'll try another pyramid or two and work on getting lighter pressure on the hones. I have a feeling I'll be sending one of my razors off to a honemeister pretty soon...

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

. . . 3" is ok if you can't find the 2".

2" saves a dollar or two in the short term but 3" is much much much much much better .

Depends on who you ask. I would have got the 2" even if I had to pay the same price because of the results that I am getting.

The 2000 grit sandpaper and the 4000 grit stone are about the same size of grit. In the past whenever I have used 2000 grit sandpaper and then tried to go to a hone I have had problems.
My conclusion was that the sandpaper has to much "give" in it and resulted in an edge that was ever so slightly "rounded over". My suggestion to you is to go no further than 1500 grit on the sandpaper and then use the 4000 hone to make the bevel flat. The Thumbnail test on the 4000 is what you need to pass and also when viewed under the micrscope the edge should be of a uniform color and texture for the full "width " of the bevel. If the bevel is two colors then this indicates two angles. The edge should also be of a uniform finish (roughness) with no obvious nicks. Once you have achieved this then you are almost done. Then start the Pyramid at about either the 10/5 level or the 5/5 level using only the weight of the razor and testing frequently with either the thumb pad test or the HHT, or both.

Hope this helps,

Ugh, you took a lot of steel off that razor that probably didn't need to come off. Well, I agree with the other comments here stating that the jump from 2000 grit to a barber hone is too far of a stretch.

Save your money and get the Norton combo 4k/8k hone. It really is all you need, even for the heavy work. And after you get it sharp I suggest using a Belgian Hone to maintain it instead of your barber hone. The edge will feel better with the Belgian. But the Belgian will also run you some money so keep saving.

I know you want to learn but you'll need the proper tools to get the kind of results we talk about so a good strategy for now is to save your money send out your razor and when you have the right tools you'll learn quicker. Just my 2¢.

Regards,
EL

The trouble with those barber hones is you never know the actual grit size. If your lucky you know its a finishing hone as opposed to a work hone. I have to agree with El, save your money and get the Norton. Its pricey but when you consider all the time your spending and the lack of results it worth the money if you can scrape up the dough.

I also have to agree that you probably need to go back to a 4K grit for a few passes.