Thread: Bevel set or Finisher problem ?

Originally Posted by mainaman

a wire edge will pass all tests but the shave test.
YOu need so me form of magnification to be able to follow your progress.

Ahhhh now I see! Thus the rough shave! I fooled myself. Now I don't feel like the biggest d***heb*g. So now at least I know what needs to be done. Thanks gents for allowing me to waste your time. I def learned alot tonight! Much appreciated!

Originally Posted by anthogia

Ahhhh now I see! Thus the rough shave! I fooled myself. Now I don't feel like the biggest d***heb*g. So now at least I know what needs to be done. Thanks gents for allowing me to waste your time. I def learned alot tonight! Much appreciated!

Don't be so hard on your self Tony, it takes some practice but you will learn.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Don't be so hard on your self Tony, it takes some practice but you will learn.

Yeah you're right, I'm actually really glad for this post I learned alot! Thanks again to you and oni for your help! Now I can start with a clean slate and KNOW what to look for. I'll definitely keep you guys posted on my progress!

Originally Posted by anthogia

The bevel is a thin line all the way across as in picture two, on both sides. Tell me that's wrong, lol!

Yep, like it has been set

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Moved some posts here from another thread.

Of course the answer was 'bevel set'

It usually is

Originally Posted by anthogia

That's what I'm so frustrated about- it passed the tpt, it popped hairs, I was able to shave my arm hairs easily, I just don't get it!

Did you kill the edge before you started honing it. Run it once or twice on the edge of a glass. The reason to do this is to make sure any new "sharpness" comes from you and not from what was there before.

Get the bevel set, I mean really, really set.

Work on your Naniwa to 12K, use your loupe along the way-DO NOT COUNT LAPS, use the loupe and hone on the stone until the scratches from the previous stone are gone, not almost gone, GONE.

Once you get that mirror like Naniwa 12K bevel, go to your JNAT.

Use your tomo nagura and raise a hint of a slurry, think 1/2 diluted skim milk, if your awase is hard and your tomo is a good match, you do not need too much water, hone on that until the slurry breaks down.

You will be able to tell by the change in color and feel of the blade. Dilute the slurry once and give it anoher 20-30 laps.

Rinse everything off and give it 20-30 laps with a good amount of plain water. I you did everything right and your blade is not smiling you should feel some sticking of the blade to the stone. This is called stiction, strop and enjoy.

Once your bevel is set do not try the TNT anymore, you ar elikely to ruin the edge that way.

Originally Posted by ElDoctor

Did you kill the edge before you started honing it. Run it once or twice on the edge of a glass. The reason to do this is to make sure any new "sharpness" comes from you and not from what was there before.

That is not quite correct, there is no such thing the whole concept of bevel set is to create bevels and form and edge that is then refined on higher grit stones to shave ready. The process of forming a bevel bt definition will get rid of what is done before. In some cases (like the one we are talking here) a wire edge already exists, and one has to kill that before one can actually hone the blade. This situation is not so common from razor to razor.

Once you get that mirror like Naniwa 12K bevel, go to your JNAT.

Use your tomo nagura and raise a hint of a slurry, think 1/2 diluted skim milk, if your awase is hard and your tomo is a good match, you do not need too much water, hone on that until the slurry breaks down.

You will be able to tell by the change in color and feel of the blade. Dilute the slurry once and give it anoher 20-30 laps.

You say do not count laps on the Naniwa 12k, but you are counting on the Jnat? That doe snot make any sense.

Rinse everything off and give it 20-30 laps with a good amount of plain water. I you did everything right and your blade is not smiling you should feel some sticking of the blade to the stone. This is called stiction, strop and enjoy.

And this will kill the edge especially on plain water and with that many laps.
Did you just read a bunch of threads and repost here?

Originally Posted by ElDoctor

Yep, like it has been set

It usually is

Did you kill the edge before you started honing it. Run it once or twice on the edge of a glass. The reason to do this is to make sure any new "sharpness" comes from you and not from what was there before.

Get the bevel set, I mean really, really set.

Work on your Naniwa to 12K, use your loupe along the way-DO NOT COUNT LAPS, use the loupe and hone on the stone until the scratches from the previous stone are gone, not almost gone, GONE.

Once you get that mirror like Naniwa 12K bevel, go to your JNAT.

Use your tomo nagura and raise a hint of a slurry, think 1/2 diluted skim milk, if your awase is hard and your tomo is a good match, you do not need too much water, hone on that until the slurry breaks down.

You will be able to tell by the change in color and feel of the blade. Dilute the slurry once and give it anoher 20-30 laps.

Rinse everything off and give it 20-30 laps with a good amount of plain water. I you did everything right and your blade is not smiling you should feel some sticking of the blade to the stone. This is called stiction, strop and enjoy.

Once your bevel is set do not try the TNT anymore, you ar elikely to ruin the edge that way.

While I appreciate your post im going to have to stick with Oz and Stefan on this one. They've given me some tried and true methods that I don't wanna pass up Doc. I appreciate your response though doc! Thanks!

Originally Posted by mainaman

That is not quite correct, there is no such thing the whole concept of bevel set is to create bevels and form and edge that is then refined on higher grit stones to shave ready. The process of forming a bevel bt definition will get rid of what is done before. In some cases (like the one we are talking here) a wire edge already exists, and one has to kill that before one can actually hone the blade. This situation is not so common from razor to razor.



You say do not count laps on the Naniwa 12k, but you are counting on the Jnat? That doe snot make any sense.

And this will kill the edge especially on plain water and with that many laps.
Did you just read a bunch of threads and repost here?

How do you know there is a wire edge unless you had the razors in your hand. I merely asked him if he started form nothing. For example if you have a shave ready razor that was honed with tape and then tried to touch it up without tape you are in fact not hitting the edge of the edge. You can get a false sense of security by performing any bevel set "tests".

By killing the bevel on glass prior to setting the bevel any tests you perform and pass will I fact be from the work you just did and not from any previous honing.

I don't count laps, anyone that does so is missing the point of honing. Hone until the razor is ready to move on, some razors it might be 30 some more. I only mentioned 20-30 to give an idea.

I have never killed the edge on a natural stone by doing laps on plain water. If you have such experience perhaps your strokes have not been perfect and you messed up the edge.

I am not a believer in "over honing" on natural higher grit stones.

On abrasive cutters like the shaptons absolutely.

I am talking here from experience and not just posting as you say "Did you just read a bunch of threads and repost here"

Originally Posted by anthogia

While I appreciate your post im going to have to stick with Oz and Stefan on this one. They've given me some tried and true methods that I don't wanna pass up Doc. I appreciate your response though doc! Thanks!

No problem. Keep having fun.

lol its no longer fun I've done hundreds of strokes on this blade just to get it to where I wanted to be close to. I have a long way to go on my Honing skills and on this blade!

Originally Posted by ElDoctor

How do you know there is a wire edge unless you had the razors in your hand.

it was discussed with pictures

By killing the bevel on glass prior to setting the bevel any tests you perform and pass will I fact be from the work you just did and not from any previous honing.

It works just the same with no glass dulling when done correctly.

I only mentioned 20-30 to give an idea.

Got ya, still it sound different than saying until done.

I have never killed the edge on a natural stone by doing laps on plain water. If you have such experience perhaps your strokes have not been perfect and you messed up the edge.

You are assuming a lot here.

I am not a believer in "over honing" on natural higher grit stones.

no one is talking about overhoning here

I am talking here from experience and not just posting as you say "Did you just read a bunch of threads and repost here"

Your input is welcome