Thread: Do I need an anvil?

Originally Posted by pfries

And I bet those pins are TIGHT....

Not Yet - But by GOD they will be!

You don't need one unless.....Your cologne comes in 1, or you set pins, or you need a foot rest. The foot rest is going to work soon



For razor pics I like a gear but then, I am a little different. :<0)

Originally Posted by 10Pups

You don't need one unless.....Your cologne comes in 1, or you set pins, or you need a foot rest. The foot rest is going to work soon


For razor pics I like a gear but then, I am a little different. :<0)

Good to see you wear appropriate safety footwear in your workshop

That is my buffing sock. See how shiny my anvil face is ?

But really the shop is closed. Now, it is the smoking section. Floor swept,vac,hosed, and squeegeed.

Originally Posted by 10Pups

That is my buffing sock. See how shiny my anvil face is ?

But really the shop is closed. Now, it is the smoking section. Floor swept,vac,hosed, and squeegeed.

With a Hardy hole that worn and smooth you must not be able to keep your toe out of it!

Now I have my mini "anvil" I am thinking that I should drill a small hole for if I have to repin. So the question is, what size and how deep a hole should I drill? Thanks in advance

Originally Posted by edhewitt

Now I have my mini "anvil" I am thinking that I should drill a small hole for if I have to repin. So the question is, what size and how deep a hole should I drill? Thanks in advance

Two "holes"

One is a dimple to set the pins and washers, a 1/8" bit and only the very tip so it makes a small dimple that is the "Set Hole"

The second hole is for making a pin if you chose to do it this way, myself I use a Vise but, a 5/64" bit and drill 3/4" deep, this can be used to peen one side of the pin this should work for most any razor... Unless you make big thick clunky scales then go 1" deep

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Two "holes"

One is a dimple to set the pins and washers, a 1/8" bit and only the very tip so it makes a small dimple that is the "Set Hole"

The second hole is for making a pin if you chose to do it this way, myself I use a Vise but, a 5/64" bit and drill 3/4" deep, this can be used to peen one side of the pin this should work for most any razor... Unless you make big thick clunky scales then go 1" deep

Thanks, I think all my bits are metric, but I should be able to convert to the nearest size, unless that's gonna be a bad idea.
1/8 =3.2mm app so a 3.5mm would be close
5/64 is 2mm or as close as damn it.
Would this work?

Sorry that also leads to the question of how long a piece of pin stock to cut, if my hole is 3/4", presumably the stock should be cut 3/4" + washer thickness + 1/?" To allow the first side to be peened, how long should ? be, I think I read about 1/16" but I am not sure

The pin size is 1/16" Nominal, which means it ain't perfect it varies a tiny bit between lots, this also is why I drill pin holes at 5/64" to allow for the varience and any Percussion Bulge that might occur or you can split scales..

Vintage pins can be smaller then 1/16" or slightly larger so they vary also..

As to which Metric bits work my answer is don't know, I have this worked out for Inch dimensions converting is not something I deal with
You want to leave about 1-2mm above the anvil to form a peen then you pull that pin out and put the washer(s) on from the other side.. This is also something you have to adjust to YOU, to much and you bend the pin, to little and you get a weak peen, it adjusts with the force behind your taps with the hammer... You put the pin stock in the hole then you adjust by cutting with the Dykes and filing it flat, you don't cut the pin first ie: you adjust by feel...



Of course this is all in the workshop sticky thread under pinning, the only difference is I am using a Vice instead of a mini anvil...