Thread: Photographing Razors

This setup works pretty well for me. 'Not using the auto settings and manually setting white balance seems to help a lot.

Thanks Ben. What do you do about the black shadowing on the blade?

Parts List
One 14"x14"x14" UPS shipping carton
Three sheets of 14"x17" tracing paper
2" duct tape
One utility knife
Two goose-neck table lamps w/26W fluorescent bulbs

I found the instructions here.

It took all of an hour to construct. I cut a 1/4" slit across the upper back of the box, through which I pull whichever background I've chosen for that day's SOTD photo (most of my backgrounds are pillowcases, from Target; some are camouflage cloth, purchased from the Barre Army-Navy Store).

HNSB, do you have a flash for your DSLR? If you do, all you need to do is to back yourself up against a wall and aim that flash behind you. It'll bounce off the walls of the room and illuminate the shot evenly. Personally, I think f-1.7 is was too small for that shot. I try to go for as close to f-3+ to minimize artifacting. Here's one shot this way...

Originally Posted by red96ta

HNSB, do you have a flash for your DSLR? If you do, all you need to do is to back yourself up against a wall and aim that flash behind you. It'll bounce off the walls of the room and illuminate the shot evenly. Personally, I think f-1.7 is was too small for that shot. I try to go for as close to f-3+ to minimize artifacting. Here's one shot this way...

That was just with a bounce flash? The lighting is wonderful.

Well, I've been experimenting a little more. I took some dark green spray paint to my flowers and styrofoam to darken the background a bit.

I also played with different aperture settings to see how they turned out. It seems, that for my setup, f4 puts the razor in good focus and still gives the background a heavy blur.

Here is my most recent attempt with a Joseph Mappin 8/8 wedge:

I take a simple approach to my knife and razor photography. Just natural daylight (window light) and a chunk of wood as a background. It's not perfectly consistent, and the light intensity is low, but it's easy and looks good.



The biggest issue with this method is getting enough light on the sensor. The only solution to this is long exposures with a tripod. My exposures are usually about 2 seconds long.

The uniformity of a light box can actually be a hindrance in some situations. The light is (intentionally) flat, and can obscure details like chatoyancy. Window light has its own problems too. It is mostly from one direction, so shadows can be somewhat pronounced. This problem can be easily solved using white reflector cards strategically placed around the subject. By having only one primary light source and one (or two) secondary sources, you can custom tailor the light to accentuate the subject. Simply moving the reflectors around will illuminate shadows, control reflections, and accentuate chatoyancy.





Phillip

Originally Posted by HNSB

That was just with a bounce flash? The lighting is wonderful.

Yes. The shot was taken using a piece of paper under the razor, then I just backed up to the wall and turned the flash head around so that it shot onto the wall behind me. If you do that, the whole room will become a light box.

I think a less busy background shows off the razor , JMHO

Originally Posted by nessmuck

I think a less busy background shows off the razor , JMHO

I've been thinking that too. I was bored with the plain white backgrounds though so wanted to do something different. I think I need to find a happy medium.