I would say your collection is big enough for a museum :)
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thanks,
I might make a traveling exhibition
Hey,
Hopefully this qualifies. I know its not vintage, but its my version of a stubtail and it shaves really well!
Eric
http://img.tapatalk.com/63f29935-55cb-3c65.jpg
Here is one of my stubby's. It is a huge razor. 8/8 1/2 hollow, about 1/2" longer than any other razor I have. If I put it up against a normal razor, it simply dwarfs them.
I got a hair to clean this guy up this week. It had a pretty black tang, a fair blade with some patina and pitting. It was already in these handmade wood scales. I don't know the type of wood, but they are huge, to go along with the huge blade.
I sanded and polished her up as well as possible, but I wasn't going to go to crazy near the spine, as it has very little hone wear on it. I wanted to keep it that way too!!
It has a nice smile, but was a dream to hone. After the full regimen on the stone, this old sucker was launching hairs like nothing. She is truly one of the gems of my collection. For a 200 year old razor, not too bad.
Here is a pick of my Westonton & Sons "Again Superior".
Enjoy!
M
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I would humbly like acceptance into this club with my latest acquisition....one J. Elliot. I haven't gotten it yet, but it's been shipped.Attachment 103510Attachment 103511Attachment 103512Attachment 103513Attachment 103514
I also have two new .... here is a pipe with darts ... and a John Shephert crown and wolf ..... (no picture)
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The Westinton & Son Again Superior is magnificent! Thank you for showing her off. I love that razor.
For MJHAMMER: Believe the scales are lacewood. I have made several sets of scales using this wood and they turn out beautiful and strong. Great stubby. FYI,
Buy Lacewood 3 8 x 3 x 24 at Woodcraft
Ok. I can hardly contain myself. First of all, my apologies for submitting what I have come to believe is an 1830's Joseph Elliot into this thread filled with 18th century wonders. Having said that, I've scrubbed and cleaned the scales, soaked them in neatsfoot oil for 48 hrs, metal polished the blade and pins, and am going to hone it and shave with it once I get off work. I'm beginning to fidget and fuss and look for hidden computers at the job to get back to this site.....
p.s. As for polishing the blade, yes, I have left the original patina:)
This is my first post here on SRP. I was encouraged by another member to check the site for this club after mailing him the straight below for some restoration work. I purchased this Wade & Butcher straight with original horn scales about a month and a half ago.
I've been told it is a stub tail, and that it could date anywhere from the 1700's (prior to the American Revolution) to 1815ish. Any details that you guys have would be greatly appreciated!
I will post additional pics upon its return to me. I am so excited to use this beauty as I begin my journey into straight razor shaving!
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Fair enough, seeing as though WADE & BUTCHER only existed under such a name from 1818-1890, if I have ready correctly.
Manah's got you covered.
The particular model you've got was made for quite a while, so it's difficult to pin down precisely.
Hi all,
Kind of hoping someone might have even the slightest hint of what I have here! :) I bought this earlier this year off the bay and have put off doing anything to it in terms of restoration until either a) I decide to leave it as-is or b) my skills are such that I'm confident tackling a 200-year-old blade without doing any damage. I think it is probably circa 1810. Any other estimates?
So I guess I really have two questions:
Any idea who made it?
What would *you* do with it? Attempt to restore and bring back to use? Or leave as-is and preserve it?
I started a thread about this razor back in April ( http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ery-razor.html ), but figure this is probably the group of folks to ask.
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The writing is obscured and can only be partially read: "Beach" followed by what could either be an "&" or possibly another symbol, and then below "...chwitz". It *could* possibly read "Aschwitz" but I cannot be certain. Only the very top of the "A" can be seen, and it could have been preceded by other letters that are no longer visible.
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Yep. The entire spine has been reground. It originally looked like this:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3499/5...9b3f81ea_z.jpg
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6192/6...3cc492bb_z.jpg
Probably really a lot like that, which would've been why the owner took it to a grinder to turn it back into something usable. You can just barely make out that the stamp and tang are the same, but DapperJoe's has had a stabilizer ground in, which digs into the profile of the spine.
That's an impressive mystery. I dug around but I can't find anything. Seems unlikely to be the same Beach that's brought up in the other thread because that razor was made before he was born. I'd guess late 1700's to early 18-teens.
The scales might well be original. I've seen a lot of earlier razors, especially more luxury oriented English razors, that are scaled in that same wood.
Personally, I'd put some tape on the spine and give it a gentle swipe across a high-grit hone, just to see how much metal has to go to get it workable. If it's barely touching along the full edge, I would probably just give it a really thorough Flitz/Mothers/Maas polishing and leave it at that.
It's a fascinating piece.
dapperjoe, first of all, Welcome to SRP.
I'm really sorry. But somebody lied ...or, possibly, didn't know he speak about.Quote:
I've been told it is a stub tail, and that it could date anywhere from the 1700's (prior to the American Revolution) to 1815ish.
A part of your blade was lost.
Very approximate scheme:
http://manah.strazors.com/w_b_lost.jpg
Most likely, your razor was closer to this one:
http://www.strazors.com/uploads/ForS..._2012/wb_1.jpg
http://www.strazors.com/uploads/ForS..._2012/wb_4.jpg
http://www.strazors.com/uploads/ForS..._2012/wb_5.jpg
And the razor was made after 1850. IMO.
guys, I was shopping again ..... some razor for little money .....
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My contributions. They each have issues, but they both give great shaves. The top is a Joseph Elliot with a prominent crack running through the tang. The second is a Packwood that appeared to have been put through a knife sharpener.Attachment 105000
my Birks is restored.......
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Not sure if this qualifies as a stub tail but I didn't see a thread for unusual tails, maybe it belongs in the frameback thread? there's no maker stamp on it so I haven't been able to put a date on it. Can anyone help me out? Also If I've the wrong thread please point me in the right direction thanks.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/P7309560.jpg
a new Razor for mes. A old english. what is this for a logo?
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Tell me what you think:) Am I right in thinking its from around 1830?
The pronounced tang and stabilizer place it later than a sure enough stub tail. Might have been reground from its original shape or possibly the monkey tail broken off and that ground as it is. Kind of thick on the end for the second possibility though. Just IMHO.
It being a Lord & Harvey, you've got a fairly narrow range. 1817-1837.
I would assume it's earlier than later, so within a few years of 1820 on either side. I've seen a wide range of styles from Lord & Harvey razors, but yours is the most different. That's an unusual blade shape for an early Sheffield, maybe they were taking cues from the French designs?
That's kind what I thought from what I could find on Lord & Harvey. I haven't seen too many and so I was curious about the style as well. It has very little hone wear for its age, But it unfortunately has small chip near the toe. I can't decide if I would want to risk changing the shape just to get the chip out.
Moved this thread over to here at the suggestion of Martin103 from Show and Tell.
Picked up off the bay. No name that I can find, full hollow 6/8 with mis-matched scales. One scale is flat sided with the number 5 inscribed while the other scale is convex. The flat side may be original while the convex is obviously not. Stub tail style would indicate this to be made in the early 1820's to 30's.
Any help with identification would be appreciated.
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It polished up nicely with hand sanding and found no major defects that I could see. Just a little dink in the edge. Took out the slight frown and the dink on DMT and reset the bevel on the Naniwa 1k. Then the Norton 4k/8k combo and then took it up to the 12k naniwa Super Stone.
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Got a good 2 pass shave with it this morning. There are issues with my technique, what with the stub tail and floppy scales but that will correct itself in time. Definitely in the rotation.
I like the idea of using a blade that has a history, that somebody treasured enough to cobble together repairs to keep it in use. I'm also thankful that they preserved it somewhere dry so that it could be brought back to a polish in an evenings work.
The next decision will be to preserve the work that someone else has put into it up to this point or update the scales and produce a tool that can last another 150 years.
Thinking about some black G-10 and reusing the wedge. Inlay a #5 and sign and date the inside.
my one and only , she has been doctored up but she shaves like a champ !!!!
http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/u...A_IMAG1238.jpg
Guys, I don't know why I don't post much here, but now I've got a question after seeing all of the above stubtails that you guys have restored. I haven't done anything to my Wade other than honing it and shaving with it. Do you guys have a consensus as to whether it's better to shine them up, or should I just leave it as it was found? You can see the picture of this razor up at post #39 on page 4. I'd really like to see what you guys say.
I'm not deep into it but for me, I take it razor by razor. They are all tools to be used, IMHO, so the intention is to put them all into the rotation. They need to be sanitary so a hand polish is the minimum I'll do. Rust and tarnish require sanding and once I start that, I'll tend to go to high polish. Engraving that I want to preserve with a tarnish, I'll clean and hone. Rust is the source of pitting, so I'll work to take pits out.
Scales are part of the whole package. Old and beat up are all right as long as they're safe to shave with.
Other than that, it all boils down to "how does it shave?"
id rather just hone or have it honed ( my hone skills arnt the best yet )unless it has some serious rust goin on or something i wanna take off but they are nothing in the end like a full restore .. im pretty new to this thing , but ive picked up a few older razors i at first wanted to sent out and have restored and honed , but today i tried my hand with them on the hone and they shaved GREAT !! so all ive done to them was take off a few spots and now they are on the shelf with my other shavers !!
Here's my John Barber I restored. It has bone scales with a lead wedge. Triple stacked washers brass, brass, SS. The biggest I filed into flowers. I love this razor!!!!
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