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Thread: Wood heaven

  1. #11
    Member... jmercer's Avatar
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    Wood porn love it.

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewmurray86 View Post
    Cheers bro!
    Would you apply a clear coat of varnish or lacquer over those oils?

    I mean I'd love to leave the timbers natural but that just won't work with them getting wet every day...
    Am an oil and wax guy,in reality scales and wood brush handles should never get wet,no need for it.JMO
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    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Here's my contribution to the wood porn. My basket of goodies.

    Name:  IMG_20140721_202015.jpg
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    To name a few, maple burl, ironwood burl, mallee burl, box elder burl, buckeye burl,amboyna burl, African ebony, African blackwood, spalted tamarind, walnut, crotch walnut, desert ironwood, birds eye maple, curly maple, rosewood.

    Think I got me all.
    Last edited by HARRYWALLY; 07-22-2014 at 03:43 AM. Reason: my excellent spelling
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    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

  4. #14
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    I do some hobby woodworking as one of the many things that distracts me from getting my real work done. A couple of good oil options would be boiled linseed oil (BLO) or danish oil. Like was mentioned in a previous comment, let them dry/cure thoroughly before applying a clear varnish.

    An oil should look really nice on that wood. Good luck!

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Hey ! I uploaded my first youtube video. Next thing you know I'll be on Facebook.

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    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

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    You should see my scrap bin.

    Custom Wood for your Espresso Machine - Marketplace • Home-Barista.com

    As to finish. If you want to go with a satin oil finish you could use linspeed oil or varnish oil (made by tried and true finishes) which is basically the same thing as linspeed. It is a polymerized linseed oil. Linseed alone will not dry. It stays wet forever. Either of these two options will harden. I use them for my oil finishes and gunstocks and knife finish. There is always Danish oil as well. Watch out for the rosewood family of woods like cocobolo. The natural oil content in the wood is so high most finishes will never cure. They will stay gummy forever and make a mess. For that I use a catalyzed urethane or epoxy which is a chemically hardened finish.

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    Ooo Shiny cannonfodder's Avatar
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    Forgot, with stock thickness you can use a plainer but when you get ultra thin (1/16 inch'ish) they have a bad tendency to break the stock or chunk it out if you are using a figured wood. I will plain down to a heavy 1/8 inch then run it through my surfacing drum sander to them down to the final dimension.

  8. #18
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wullie View Post
    Interesting looking wood.

    Learned a new word today.

    Thicknesser!! I'm thinking us colonials refer to that as a planer.

    End result is the same.
    Tomahto , tomato.
    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

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    1 more oil you may want to consider is tongue oil. I have heard it brings out the good in the wood

  10. #20
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaneC View Post
    1 more oil you may want to consider is tongue oil. I have heard it brings out the good in the wood
    That's tung oil in case the op is grossed out.
    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

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