Thread: Shave Den's Permanent Residents

Gentlemen,

Let's face it, any soap or cream will work for the shave. Whether a traditional cheapo or some mediocre artisan soap with a colorful name, each will provide some measure of cushion and glide. In the Vietnam jungles, I used water from the canteen, the steel helmet for my sink, a can of God forsaken goo for shave cream, and a disposable razor. I did get a shave, but it was unpleasant. So when you have to, anything will work.

Under normal circumstances, however, some soaps and creams remain permanent residents in my humble shave den. I have trimmed the lineup to five soaps and creams each. I don't see that changing any time soon. Not that other soaps and creams don't make it to the shave den; they come and go almost daily.

Many go as fast as they come in, including Meisner Tremonia, Green Mountain, Savonnerie du bon Berger, Savoniere du Moulin, Boellis Panama 1924 and a fleet of other soaps and creams I like to forget about. I must say, the worst soap I have ever tried was Durance, a French abomination that came out some years ago and mercifully, I think, disappeared. Akh!

I must clarify something: The soaps and creams I have eliminated may be of high quality, and highly regarded by many gentlemen, but they have not worked for me with my ultra sensitive skin and all. Most have lacked the proper cushion I need, whereas other gentlemen have liked the same cushion. And that's how it is in the world of traditional shaving.

We all have our preferences in soaps and creams for various indisputable reasons — we like or dislike them for specific personal tastes. Who am I to say the soap or cream you use is garbage — if it doesn't work for me. Of course, there are some exceptions. If you ever try Durance, you'll know what I mean.

For instance, Meisner Tremonia lathered well and the glide was slick, but the cushion was mediocre — for me. The same thing with a host of other U.S. and French made artisan soaps. Boellis Panama, an Italian cream enjoyed by some, torched my skin so badly that I got rid of it after one shave. And the list goes on.

So now, for my personal reasons, which include rich lather, slick glide, ideal cushion, pleasing fragrance, and aftershave qualities, here are the five permanent resident soaps and cream in my humble shave den.

SOAPS

Martin de Candre
Le Pere Lucien,
Czech & Speak
Saponificio Varesino
Mitchell's Wool Fat

CREAMS

Castle Forbes
Xpec
Esbjerg
Baum.Be
Taylor of Old Bond Street's Jermyn Street

I am sure your shave den has permanent resident soaps and creams, too, that you want to share.

I only alternate 2. 1 soap 1 cream. Le Pere Lucien and tobs jermyn cream. When those are done I may try something else. Martin de Candre has always interested me.

Thanks for the post, I'll stick to your top 5's and probably be happy, sounds like we enjoy the same fragrances and performance. My rad is still to powerful to be swayed by other AD's at the moment.

Always in the Den(small cramped bathroom )

Cella
Martin de Candre
C.O. Bigelow
Taylor of Old Bond Street- Eton College
Maca Root

Tend to only keep four on a regular basis in the shave den.

Vito's
Proraso
Arko
Real Shave Company sensitive.

Well, Obie, that is one of those trick questions, is it not? "Who am I to say the soap or cream you use is garbage — if it doesn't work for me." There are, of course, many subjective qualities which some people like, and others do not. However, and despite the fact that some people claim otherwise, there are objective qualities, too. Over the years, I have come to appreciate true craftsmanship. Which is why I have, simultaneously, developed a growing disdain for cheaply made products.

With that in mind, here are my favourites.

SOAPS

1. Meißner Tremonia: Gentle Menthol. The best shaving soap just got better. Less aggressively mentholated than their "Mint Ice Menthol" variety, it sports a slightly floral scent. Paired with their new aftershave balm, it is the best shaving combination I have tried so far. Cold stirred in a medieval copper vat, it is also the most hardcore artisan product. Add to that the best packaging in the market, and you have a winner.
2. Green Mountain Soap: Lime Vetiver. A fantastic soap at a great price. Nice scent, and excellent aftershave skin care.
3. Savonnerie du bon Berger: Menthe et Petit Grain. A fairly monodimensional scent (English lozenge, not American chewing gum). Same outstanding performance as Green Mountain Soap, but easier to lather.
4. Lorenzo Villoresi: Uomo. The single best leather scent in the market, and arguably one of the most distinctive scents overall (eat this, Penhaligon's and Czech & Speake).
5. Scottish Fine Soaps: Eponymous. I know that many will list Mitchell's Wool Fat, but this is the better alternative. More refined scent, easier to lather, more stylish presentation - same price.

CREAMS

1. Meißner Tremonia: Dark Limes. See above, only for the paste. Theirs is the most interesting lime scent, ie dried limes. Not too sweet, not to citric, just perfect.
2. Baume.be: Eponymous. Smells like the late Domenico Caraceni cream, and performs almost just as well. No mean feat, since that was the best cream ever made.
3. Esbjerg: Verbena. A hot contender for the hardcore artisan throne. Mountain water run through a Schauberger funnel and willed with Mozart sounds is just one ingredient that sets it apart. Phenomenal skin care, flawless performance. The tubs are bit of a let-down, though.
4. Castle Forbes: Lime. The benchmark for many years, and still the best fresh lime scent. Foolproof to lather, I would strongly recommend it to any beginner.
5. St. James: Cedarwood & Clarysage. There was a time when these could be had from beautyatcreightons.com for GBP 3 on a good day. Back then, they were the best offer available. Not least because Creightons know what they are doing, being the producers of most big brand name creams from England. Right now, they are overpriced. But very good.

In Box #1 - the prime rotation of soaps and creams for me are:

SOAPS

MDC Fougere
Penhaligon's Sartorial
DR Harris Windsor
Penhaligon's English Fern
Le Pere Lucien
Saponificio Varesino

Joris Shaving Soap is still in "evaluation" but looks promising....

CREAMS

T&H Trafalgar/1805
Castle Forbes Lavender
Esbjerg Verbena (once I figured out the water mix - wow!) and Esbjerg Aftershave Oil (amazing product, can't say enough about it...)
Baum.be
St. James Mandarin & Patchouli
Acqua Di Parma Shave Cream
XPEC Original Shave Cream

Mitchell's Wool Fat, is purposely left off the list.....

My list is constantly changing, but today it includes:

Soaps:
1. La Savonnière du Moulin: the best performing soap I've ever used.
2. Cold River Soap Works
3. JabonMan - Eufros Premium Rosa Boubon: this soap is a masterpiece, in a league of it's own.
4. Saponificio Varesino

Creams:
1. Acqua Di Parma
2. Castle Forbes
3. Alvarez Gomez
4. Tabula Rasa

I don't use creams even though the Catie's range are more croap than soap so my lineup looks like this. I must also give the worst performing soap I've ever used a mention Le Pere Lucien.

1. Catie's Bubbles Le Terre Verte
2. MDC Fougere
3. Catie's Bubble Fouet L'Orange
4. L'Occitane Cade
5. Mitchell's Wool fat

Soaps:
MDC
Saponificio Varesino
Barrister & Mann
The Fat
Stirling

Creams
XPEX
CF

Well Obie, unless it gets closed through abuse, I think you have just started the longest thread in the history of this forum. How on earth can you expect people to agree on such things as soaps or creams?