That's just lovely, Mike :bow
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That's just lovely, Mike :bow
About the lettering on the cup.
I tried this stuff, and was extremely pleased how easily it worked, how it holds up..time will tell.
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Reminded me of a big grease pencil, and their made in all kinds of colors.
Just rub it in, and polish it off.
And it puts out a nice shine on the surrounding surface too!!
That brush refurb came out brilliantly. Well done!
That came out sweet Mike. I have a few around here but here's a couple I need to re-knot. The one on the left is a Never Shed & the knot is already loose on it.
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Guess I need to get 'em apart & get some knots. I already have another one apart & it needs a 19mm knot.
Thank you Tom! I'm honored. Now if I can simply study your advanced tutorial closely, and mimic your techniques precisely... I will be a master of straight razors!!! Hehehe :)
If only it were that simple.
Excellent work as always. One of these days I'll remove the training wheels from my tricycle and learn to hone properly lol :) I look forward to a clean shave as my beard is getting offensive.
Thanks for the great tutorial Mike, the pictures revealed some techniques that I'm going to use on my next brush.
I often wonder if you guys have written check-lists that you follow..
That looks fantastic, and the wax, great idea! Seriously going to add that to the arsenal.
Edit: oh, and the bog oak crack filler, awesome!
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Nice work. :tu
Ongoing pleasant restoration :)
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:chapeau
Edit : nice blades Aaron !
I'm working on packing my house. This is our last week in our old house and I'm starting to get worried we wont be ready for when we move this coming Saturday.
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We've done a lot in the past 2 days but still need to get a lot boxed up. All my tools and razors are in boxes. I had my razors and gear packed up last week, and have kept my Ali's blade and Bruno Custom out for use until we actually move. Thought i'd use these 2 weeks to really get to know these blades.
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Can't wait until this is all over.....
Oh man! Moving is terrible, I went a bit crazy at some point and built a burn pile out back, it was a cathartic moment to be sure.
I suggest you keep your clothes on and don't make big arm movements when you set that pile a'flame, don't want to give the wrong impression. Hehehe :)
Good luck, no ones ever completely prepared/finished before move day.
If I recall correctly, I purchased greaseless a few years back, and the highest grit was 600. So I purchased those dry oblong blocks for higher grit polishing. I really like those dry blocks, virtually no wait time after applying it to the wheel.
Question: have there been advancements in the realm of wheel polishing compounds? Perhaps 800 - 1200 grit greaseless?
Any companies making better/best wheels?
Any threads addressing equipment upgrades recently?
:)
Mike.. I've been using a new wheel with greaseless, I found for the dremmel. Their 1 1/2" in diameter, stitched, and light weight. I'm not sure what the material is, but its a woven fabric, thin, and kinda stiff.
They also work well with the greased sticks too. I like the sticks, with a shot of goo gone, or honing oil, sometimes WD-40. Makes it a little easier on the dremmel.
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A light clean up, and honing of a seven day set of Schulze razors.
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So you were all correct, these scales are indeed Ivory, and a very fine, nice Ivory as well...beautiful scales, and the hardware is spectacular as well.
So, per Engine's advice, before I take a shot at this, thinking some 3k or 4k sandpaper may take out this horrible scrimshaw....any advice would be appreciated.
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Well, you may try to use alcohol and a tooth brush, but the dry point bitting would stay.
I'm afraid it would be difficult to completly remove it, but it depends of the depth of the scrimshaw.
Anyway it would require an unpinning to sandpaper it on an equal level.
@Phrank;
Is that actually Scrimshaw or just a scratch and regular ink? Regular ink as already pointed out is alcohol soluble. If you soak a paper towel with alcohol and let it sit for a few minutes over the ink, it should lift it a little then the tooth brush, then a little tooth polish, it should get most of the ink up. Then you will have to decide how deep the scratches are and how much ivory you are willing to loosed. Ivory scales tend to be very thin and won't take much sanding. Start with 2K and then work up or down from there. Hopefully it is very shallow. It is so poorly done that is makes me hopeful that it is not very deep. If it leaves a shadow you may consider having something put over top of it. It is my understanding that Scrimshaw in principle is very simple, doing it well takes a lot of practice, kind of like drawing.
Been there, done that. It is indeed really difficult to "draw" something neat, as ivory is trully a hard material. :)
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But it's fun to do (well, if you have some ivory scales to spare).
(please don't stone me :ziplip: )
I quite like that....I think that turned out well Thaeris.
I'm in no rush to blow away the scrimshaw off this razor...one thing I've learned, no rush....maybe the pics aren't the best, but these scales gleam, the hardware is stunning, and the scrimshaw is more subtle than the pics make it look. It may grow on me, and it certainly is unique. If I took any of the scrimshaw off, it would also only be the writing, the W&B symbol actually turned out rather well....looks really "old school", or maybe "authentic" is more appropriate.
I suppose my feelings are if it is quite old, I would like it fine as it is history. If it is poorly-done and contemporary, It might bother me. Still, sanding scratches out of bone and ivory is a bugger. They seem to be a lot deeper than I think.
It is surprising how fine the scratches are when properly done.
Ah well....The things folks sit and do! :)
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I would say tortoiseshell?
Tortoiseshell indeed :)
That was my thoughts as well when I saw them.
On Phrank's razor, you can see more of it in The Butcher Shop, the Ivory on it was quite thick & that was why I mentioned sanding it out if he wanted it out & should have plenty left.
I really hate to take more off such a harder to get material but sometimes you don't have any choice.
I'm totaly crazy about the inner fire of tortoiseshell scales..
I've been working on this one off & on. It has Ivory scales & they are old looking at how yellow they are & there is no makers name on it. I got it cheap though & I seem to like it. The Ivory cover for the tang is loose on the blade, you can turn the blade slightly back & forth inside it so I unpinned it to fix it. First John Doe in Ivory I've ever had.
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Excellent find Steve
While we are blessed to have Thaeris here, I think these are the real deal as well.
Gifted to me by Geezer, they are smaller in size, roughly sanded and unused. One set is pinned at the bottom with wooden pin for shaping, I think.
What do you think?
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They look like the real deal to me Tom.
Thanks Mike. I want to fix the covered tang, clean the blade up some & add a little more smile to it because it doesn't look like the edge matches the curve of the swayback on it. I think I'll take a little off the toe & at the heel on the edge. I'll use my digital calipers to keep the width consistent all the way across.
It looks so, yes :)
Nice scales to be ! And a nice gift ! :beer1:
Edit : Where did he got it ? It almost looks like a vintage draft from the Heljestrand factory.
Edit bis : if so, I think it would be more interesting to keep it as a curiosity than to mount it on a razor !
Good eye as Richard told me they had come from Sweden. I expect they were intended for a smaller frameback razor?
I have been entertaining shortening these Rodgers blades for them.
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Oh well! A project for another day!
Thanks!
Perhaps a MK31 or 30 ? There were very short and small models. :)
I had a pair of MK29 in tortoise for a while. Their tortoise is truelly magnificent.
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Looks great! :tu
One of the most difficult things I have honed, perhaps. I hope it goes easy! :D
Beautiful job. Congrats........