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    bon appétit

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    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    Got a chance to work on that blade last night. Taped up the blade, and did some sanding. Hit the spine and tang, paying attention to keeping crisp lines on the edges of tang, and crisp stamp letters. So I didn't use a soft surface to back the sandpaper. Soft backer = softer lines. Harder backer = crisper lines. There's a trade off though, as with a backer it makes a better connection.
    Gonna work my way up the grit tonight, and finish the blade face too. My tools and space are limited, so this is an opportunity to undertake a totally awesome rebuild with the simplest tools.. No power tools. Should be fun!
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    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    While I'm on a Duck Adventure, here's one my buddy gave me for removing a branch from and patching his roof.
    A SatinWedge. It's in bad shape because of the scales breaking down, but it has no hone wear on the spine and it's a wedge.. Also it has the inlays. So many I see online don't have the inlays.
    I'll clean it up and see how the blade looks. Since I still have that jar of acetone and my inlay removal tools and skills fresh, I'll take those off no problem.
    And will need to think about scale material.
    Follow the same theme as the Reaper with bog oak? Something else?
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    10pups and chevhead did some pretty cool stuff with translucent acrylic. So with those already having been done, I would tend to look through the juma or kirinite to see if there was anything there that would work, also there is some cool acrylester stuff too. It is cool to get something unique in the finished product.
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    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestion Rez. I'll look online at some of those. Don't want a design that's too busy, as I like to keep the focus on the inlays.
    Definitely torn on the material choice, because these come with clear.. makes me lean toward clear.. but I'm not into plastics. So...?
    Cleaned the blade to see what I'm looking at before going too far.
    The dark on the blade are superficial spots. But what my camera well not pick up are the tiny specks of devil spit across the blade face.
    The tang and stamps are great though! A little hone wear on spine but no rust, and the inlays are perfect.
    So I think it's good. I can deal with tiny pits in the end, can't be too crazy picky right?
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    32t
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeT View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion Rez. I'll look online at some of those. Don't want a design that's too busy, as I like to keep the focus on the inlays.
    Definitely torn on the material choice, because these come with clear.. makes me lean toward clear.. but I'm not into plastics. So...?
    Cleaned the blade to see what I'm looking at before going too far.
    The dark on the blade are superficial spots. But what my camera well not pick up are the tiny specks of devil spit across the blade face.
    The tang and stamps are great though! A little hone wear on spine but no rust, and the inlays are perfect.
    So I think it's good. I can deal with tiny pits in the end, can't be too crazy picky right?
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    Try to hone it first to see if you can get to good steel reasonably.

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    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 32t View Post
    Try to hone it first to see if you can get to good steel reasonably.
    I don't have a 1k stone. I've got sand paper though, does that work for such a test?
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeT View Post
    I don't have a 1k stone. I've got sand paper though, does that work for such a test?

    I’d rather use a 4/8 norton slowly than sandpaper on a duck personally mike.
    But it “could” work if wet paper, of known good quality and a truly flat backer is all you have currently.
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    32t
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeT View Post
    I don't have a 1k stone. I've got sand paper though, does that work for such a test?
    Certainly not a finished hone job but a rough one to see what you got.

    This is a project that I am playing with to practice removing inlays. Look at the edge of this cell rot nightmare. The blade would be half width even before thinking about getting to good steel.

    Just be sure that you have good steel to work with before wasting a whole bunch of time.

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    I don't have a project for these inlays so if you mess one of yours up by chance let me know.

    Tim

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