Thread: What are you working on?

That is called a cold shut in Forging Speak. Just leave it as is. I have a Robeson with one myself. It's a great razor! You I Barber is cool!

Originally Posted by williamc

Been playing around with acid etching to Create contrast, dark blade mirror polished everywhere else. I am really not liking the results, not to worry. I can Always sand and polish out, l'll see what it's like when scales are on.
Attachment 228837Attachment 228838

I think if you tried that in reverse you'd have a winner.

Originally Posted by Marshal

I think if you tried that in reverse you'd have a winner.

I do think your onto something. If I can't live with it as is, I think I'll try that.

[QUOTE=outback;1603543]Cleaning up a Genco gold seal. Then sending it out to be replated.

Mike as you skill set shows. Think about Caswell plating. They have a plating kit for gold only. Dont get the Mega kit like I did. You will get enough solution to do 15+ razors. its wipe on wipe off. 4 oz Plug N' Plate® Gold Solution (4 month shelf life) - Gold Brush Plating - Gold Plating Kits - Plating Kits - Caswell Inc

It will wear off over time.Post plating I went off the reservation and dipped mine in spar-urethane and its holding up great 1 year later.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Hammered forms over what Richard? And what gauge were you using?
Beautiful skins sir!!

Good question!
Free hammer formed from the inside and onto a hardwood block.

Hammering increases the hardness of the surface. Too much will cause the metal to break.
I darken the surface with a dirty flame from a candle, then i use a torch, Bernzo or equivalent, to heat the metal till the black disappears. Then drop it into water. The metal is again quite soft and malleable. The process is called annealing. It works for silver, German Silver and any brass also.
~Richard
The Gauge was 0.04 / 1mm...Sorry

Ok I need a sanding lesson. Looked good in person. All have been sanded and buffed.
Now back to sanding. Work is slow going. Buffing because it got to 50F today in Michigan.No inside shop.

Finished my first set of scales last night.

I used mahogany, which i epoxied to a white liner. I basically outlined the old GD scales and then squared them at the ends.



Stained with light button lac and then buffed with some finishing paste (a few times during the process). Apologies for the flash washout.



The wedge is horn and i sealed the inside liners with a few coats of CA, which i then sanded down. The CA made it a little tricky to fit the wedge but i spent some time with the dremel to help shape it. Oh the smell of burning hair... I am now very happy i made a vent, and bought a respirator. I also had to sand the insides a bit to shift the blade. I used one washer as well on the front side. The tang and blade are very misaligned.



The Gold Dollar Upgrade.. She is a little wide in the tukhus but fits nicely in the hand.



I will thank everyone now for the many, many articles and threads i have found on the site which i used to help me in this process. Almost any answer can be found, or gotten new due to the members of this forum. I also have to give credit to Charlie Lewis for his youtube vids, which are very helpful and basically defined the process i used, and the Bill Ellis's CD is gold for restoration info. Huzzah gents and thank you!!

Not bad!
Did a set in African mahogany. Found it to be a little soft, and smashed the collars trying to get the pivot tight enough.
Put it in the re do box.

I see why the liners, the grain is running off at a shear. It actually works very well. They look pretty good. It looks like a spacer and not a wedge. How is the tension tat the pivot throughout the range of movement? With a tapered tang it is hard to get that right without a wedge.