Thread: Case red imp 133

Update three now I'm honing this imp.. [emoji41]

I have a course (~ 220) diamond stone. And I stood the blade on edge and rubbed in a sawing motion (bread knifing). I backlit what I was doing and kept the blade not just flat but level and kept at it until there was no more light coming between the stone and my razor. Took 25 minutes or so. Every 20 or so saw strokes I'd lay it flat then raise 1/16th inch and do two passes each side to make the edge profile narrower and this easier to wear down.

Originally Posted by WetShaveObsession

Thank You! You explanation is not only perfect but will come in very handy for a Red Imp I have myself that needs some edge work along similar lines. Much appreciated!

You're welcome. Post pictures of the imp when you're gonna restore it [emoji41]

Balsa with CrOx time. Who digs my bad ass balsa strop??

Little hint here;

Looking at the scales and of course only seeing the pics you are posting, but the oversize Wedge is the first indicator of the Impy scales beginning to Rot they are extremely prone to this condition, in fact it is odd to find them in great condition unless they are the really end of production Morris Mfg.. Look for warping and shrinkage also, I can't tell from your pics if there is any..

You want to keep a close eye on the steel ..

The Tang and most of the Spines on these were blued from the factories..

They are awesome shavers in all of their renditions..

Good job on the restore

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Little hint here;

Looking at the scales and of course only seeing the pics you are posting, but the oversize Wedge is the first indicator of the Impy scales beginning to Rot they are extremely prone to this condition, in fact it is odd to find them in great condition unless they are the really end of production Morris Mfg.. Look for warping and shrinkage also, I can't tell from your pics if there is any..

You want to keep a close eye on the steel ..

The Tang and most of the Spines on these were blued from the factories..

They are awesome shavers in all of their renditions..

Good job on the restore

Is cell rot prevalent in red celluloid. I thought it was far more common in translucent colors? Is a milky haze on the scales another indicator?

Might I say that this baby threw down a dfs/almost bbs. If I had a better finisher I would've had the shave of my life. Next up some custom scales

Originally Posted by ncraigtrn

Is cell rot prevalent in red celluloid. I thought it was far more common in translucent colors? Is a milky haze on the scales another indicator?

The most insidious thing about cell rot is that it only has generalities, or clues, it has no rules as far as I have seen,,

Here are the worst offenders I have found over the years of restores

DD Scales the Catalin ones ie; Cracked ice and the older Yellow ones
like the Reapers have


Puma Faux Tortoise

Craftsman / Sta-sharp Cracked Ice and the Faux Tortoise

Red Imps

There are many many others but these are notorious for it.. Again there are no rules because there were so many different types and recipes for the Celluliod..

You are just going to have to read the clues and there are two that I can see from your descriptions and pics

1. It is a Red Imp (You haven't said what brand BTW)

2. The Wedge stands out

Its in the title. Its a case red imp #133. Upon yalls recommendations I'm in the process of making new scales. Kind of a better safe then sorry.

Update on the old impy. I am making the scales out of maple. Probably dark stain and marine spar top coat. Brass pins? Maybe. Any suggestions on a wedge material? I'm thinking of getting some heavier gage copper or brass depending on the pins... Any ideas r suggestions?