Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 51
Like Tree106Likes

Thread: What do you think about this starting tools?

  1. #11
    Moderator rolodave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Racine, WI USA
    Posts
    7,545
    Thanked: 1928
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cmsessa View Post
    wine corks? for what?
    Wine corks are handy for holding the sanding paper.

    The flex shaft attaches to the dremel tool.

    Start out with really cheap blades. There have been a goodly number of good blades ruined by a power tool. Pups is right. It takes a very light touch to use a buffer or a dremel. The carpet is a good idea. My area is covered with carpet I got at discount carpet stores.

    Follow the advice and use the vids here in SRP.
    RezDog, outback and cmsessa like this.
    If you don't care where you are, you are not lost.

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    11,944
    Thanked: 4300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cmsessa View Post
    Sorry, I didn't understand this. Do you recommend me getting a flex shaft instead of a Dremel?
    Get the flex shaft adaptor for the dremmel.
    RezDog and cmsessa like this.
    Mike

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    11,944
    Thanked: 4300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cmsessa View Post
    wine corks? for what?
    To wrap the wet/dry paper around.
    So you can sand the inside curvature of the blade.
    RezDog and cmsessa like this.
    Mike

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    14,395
    Thanked: 4821

    Default

    The wine corks also provide a solid backer for the sandpaper and actually help to keep the surface flat and the lines flat.
    cmsessa likes this.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

  5. #15
    Senior Member karlej's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Standish, Maine
    Posts
    816
    Thanked: 952

    Default

    Lots of horror stories out there using a Dremel. I tried it early on but it's just too easy to make a mistake and end up with a broken blade or worse. You'll get mixed reviews on its use. Some folks like them. Mine gets used to clean out the barbers notch and cleaning up the top of the monkey tail of the tang and that's about it.
    If you are looking for a magnet to hold onto a blade I use this this 'Mightly Mag". My machine operators used them to mount gages back before I retired from the business. The magnet is very powerful and can flex the edge of a blade when flat on the magnet. This is not an issue with near wedges. I use a piece of paper folded over a few times to cut the power of the magnet and keep from scratching the blade. Just watch for the deflection of the blade edge with the really hollow ground blades and position them accordingly. Google Mighty Mag and it will come up.
    Name:  P1040214.jpg
Views: 150
Size:  40.7 KBName:  P1040215.jpg
Views: 144
Size:  38.3 KBName:  P1040216.jpg
Views: 156
Size:  35.1 KB
    Last edited by karlej; 11-11-2016 at 12:02 PM.

  6. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to karlej For This Useful Post:

    BobH (11-11-2016), cmsessa (11-13-2016), RezDog (11-11-2016)

  7. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    The flex shaft attaches to a Dremel, you can buy some in sets with the Dremel, flex shaft and set of grinding and polishing bits.

    You hold the flex shaft like a pencil instead of holding the large Dremel. The more control you have the safer the process is. You can buy them separate, just make sure they will fit your model.

    Using a Dremel is dangerous because the bit is spinning so fast. Almost anyone that has used one has had it get away from them. It will easily chip or break a razor or toss it across the room. Be careful.

    A buffer is for different task. It too is dangerous and requires separate skills. There are tons of threads on buffers and compounds. Depending on what you will be doing, you will use both.
    cmsessa likes this.

  8. #17
    Member cmsessa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF
    Posts
    79
    Thanked: 14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RezDog View Post
    wet dry sandpaper, from 400 to 2000 grit
    I was reading the library and in Hand sanding a blade - Straight Razor Place Library Bruno uses 150 180 240 320 400 600 1000 1200 1500.

    Do you mind explaining why you recommended 400-2k?

  9. #18
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    EauClaire,WI
    Posts
    7,685
    Thanked: 3825
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Just for saving a buck:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...storation.html
    Have fun!
    ~Richard
    cmsessa likes this.

  10. #19
    Moderator rolodave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Racine, WI USA
    Posts
    7,545
    Thanked: 1928
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cmsessa View Post
    I was reading the library and in Hand sanding a blade - Straight Razor Place Library Bruno uses 150 180 240 320 400 600 1000 1200 1500.

    Do you mind explaining why you recommended 400-2k?
    Sanding is a personal thing. I use a range from 120 to 3000 paper and sponges up to 12k.

    Always start at a grit higher than you think you will need. You can always go back to a lower grit.
    Last edited by rolodave; 11-12-2016 at 02:41 AM.
    cmsessa likes this.
    If you don't care where you are, you are not lost.

  11. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    The grit you use is dependent on the damage, you are trying to repair, remove all the metal around the damage, to the lowest level of the damage, for example a rust pit. You will remove all the metal around the pit, equal to the bottom of the pit.

    If you have a deep pit, 220 is faster than 600 grit, but 220 will leave deep scratches that must be removed and often it is a wash, if using aggressive grits are faster overall.

    So, you must decide, if you want to remove ALL the damage, all the time.

    Restoration begins at purchase. Look at a razor and think in terms of how much work will be needed, compare this with the price. You can always find a razor in better condition, possibly for just a little more money, but you will be better off in the long run.

    I start with 600, then decide, how much damage you can live with.

    You don’t have to try to save them all, leave some for Outback…
    rolodave and cmsessa like this.

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:

    Geezer (11-12-2016)

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •