Thread: 4/8 Scales

I was going to pick the PRC razor but on second thought the squared end is a nice look (though i think the double pins are too close so i'd go with single.)Be careful of too much curve in the scales as it can make stropping difficult.

Sorry, but in the interests of historical integrity, I don't see the need to replace the scales, apart from the last one on the right as shown.

Maybe line the micarta with white g10. You could go real thin and still have enough spring in the scales for stropping. Use a metal wedge to get the balance back. My preference is a single pin, for what it’s worth.

Originally Posted by Brontosaurus

Sorry, but in the interests of historical integrity, I don't see the need to replace the scales, apart from the last one on the right as shown.

Interesting. I hear what you are saying, but 4 of those 7 razors need new scales no matter what.

The fact of the matter is, crappy scales made to save costs don’t survive real world use. That or good scales meant to be used, don’t survive well in a hot attic’s waiting for someone to love on em again. My TI hits the spacer all the time on closing, making it nessesary for an instant touch up job every time. Arg.

My Filli’s scales are so warped you need to seriously concentrate to not smash the blade into its scales when closing. The Heljestrand’s scales are a hazard in that the scales are cracked and the blade actually juts out of the bottom! Yikes!

It brings up an interesting question though. What is “historical integrity?” Vintage razors that are actually used, need to be rescaled. This is a fact, hence rescaling is true to the blades historical integrity isn’t it? If it isn’t, in my case it would mean I’d not use em anymore.

Maybe that’s why there are museum grade pieces, and utility grade. I don’t have any museum grade unfortunately...

Quite the conundrum.

I’m in the school of thought, if you won’t use it, what’s the use of it. To rescale all 7 of those, to me, makes sense that you would get all the same materials to do it. There’s economy in bulk. If I were to hang them on the wall I would be inclined to try and stay true to their original scales. If they were to end up in my rotation, I’d save money and time and try to make one set of scales to fit them all, save for possibly shaping my wedge to better fit the blade to the scales, whether for length or operation.

The latter sounds like the approach you were planning on in the first place. I may try to incorporate all the most awesome parts of those 7 sets of scales for the design.

My heart lies with the Helje, those are the sweetest looking scales I’ve had on a razor. I only have 2 with ivory on them but I wouldn’t dream of doing anything different with them.

No matter what you do it will be fun and uniquely your own. I can’t wait to see what you come up with.

Thanks 742. All I know is it’ll take some time. But I’m really looking forward to it!

Originally Posted by earcutter

Interesting. I hear what you are saying, but 4 of those 7 razors need new scales no matter what.

The fact of the matter is, crappy scales made to save costs don’t survive real world use. That or good scales meant to be used, don’t survive well in a hot attic’s waiting for someone to love on em again. My TI hits the spacer all the time on closing, making it nessesary for an instant touch up job every time. Arg.

My Filli’s scales are so warped you need to seriously concentrate to not smash the blade into its scales when closing. The Heljestrand’s scales are a hazard in that the scales are cracked and the blade actually juts out of the bottom! Yikes!

It brings up an interesting question though. What is “historical integrity?” Vintage razors that are actually used, need to be rescaled. This is a fact, hence rescaling is true to the blades historical integrity isn’t it? If it isn’t, in my case it would mean I’d not use em anymore.

Maybe that’s why there are museum grade pieces, and utility grade. I don’t have any museum grade unfortunately...

My comment was based on the photo, wherein the razors' scales don't look too bad, apart from the last one which has a couple of cracks. Other views might show the problems you mention; and then, yes, replacing the scales would seem justified.

As for "historical integrity," I mean that I tend to respect the decisions made by the makers of the time whenever possible. For example, I might not like that the Filarmonica's scales are as narrow and flimsy as they are, or colored a certain way, but that is how they were made and used at the time of manufacture. And as a matter of reference, I think it is best to leave things as they are, if not for myself then for others who may be confused by a needless change for aesthetic reasons.

Of course, one is free to do what one wants with one's own property; and if the scales are warped, then yes, by all means, it's time to change them!

At any time that I am trying to make repeatable scales, I start by making and aluminum template. You could go with wood, I know outback does his in wood. Also the need for a sander is over rated. I have a full wood shop, and I choose to shape with rasps, files, scapers and sandpaper. You need to keep you scales thin enough to have the correct amount of flex to them. If you are going to line with nickel, it will need to be very thin, as neither it nor micarta are very flexible. The black and white theme should be good. As far as scale shapes go, I am more into traditional scales. If you built them shaped like your ivory scale that would be the most interesting to me, but these are your razors.

I've got some wood and thick paper templates tucked away in envelopes.
With a set that has varying lengths yet the same blade widths, you can make the wedge end and pivot end pieces.
Once you have those, pin them on a piece of thick paper that is ontop of a cork board (or equivalent).. at the correct length for the blade you are working on.
Now proceed to draw the connecting lines, creating the scale length you need.
This may be a good way to help make a very close pattern, simply longer or shorter.
I like to use random household objects with the right curves, also a compass drawing tool is a big help.

Thanks for all the input guys! Its helpful. I’ve been watching all of spazola‘s videos trying to get some tips - but also because he’s seemingly the only person making textured scales. And that’s where I still am - still trying to figure out what design/look to use. I was thinking that textured scales might look great!



But I’m not sure being 4/8 scales are so much more thin. That and my blades aren’t textured.

Either way... you got to love the scales! Man. But on a 4/8?