Thread: Observations and request for pointers on hand sanding

Originally Posted by Montgomery

Very useful information, many thanks. Do I assume correctly that the brass tube is more useful when you want to save an etching?

Yes. Because there is no flex like the cork has it gives a hard backer for the sand paper. It's like laying a piece on a flat surface like a counter top to sand the tang or tail on.

Originally Posted by outback

I typically won't sand a full hollow. Instead I cut off the active rust with a single edge razor blade, then some 0000 steel wool and oil/ WD-40, then 3M metal restorer/ polish.

After cleaning up 50 or more razors, you'll be better at evaluating if a blade warrants sanding at all. Most aren't.!

1/4 hollow and wedges are the only blades that can withstand heavy sanding.

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I definitely get that, good advice. I guess the blade in this post is a half hollow blade (according to #8 https://sharprazorpalace.com/razors/...ng-grinds.html), and I was concerned the metal wasn't there to get rid of the pitting on the lower half of the blade, so in the end I stopped. Also, the concave quality of the blade makes it physically harder to sand. I think sanding a blade will be a rare event, so the sanding jig will wait until the need arises! It will unquestionably make the job much easier.

Originally Posted by outback

I typically won't sand a full hollow. Instead I cut off the active rust with a single edge razor blade, then some 0000 steel wool and oil/ WD-40, then 3M metal restorer/ polish.

After cleaning up 50 or more razors, you'll be better at evaluating if a blade warrants sanding at all. Most aren't.!

1/4 hollow and wedges are the only blades that can withstand heavy sanding. I also don't go any lower in grit, than 400, only on great occasions do I drop to 320.

Making a magnetic blade holding jig is a must, for hand sanding. Let's you use both hands while sanding, and lessens the fatigue .

Attachment 310404
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That's a cool jig Mike. I on the other hand sand every blade, with very few exceptions, even if it is only with 2k. I think 2k w/d shines better than polish.

The dorklord visor.
WD-40 is just a fine, inexpensive lubricant. Any very fine one will do. I buy it because around here it’s the cheapest one. People that live in and around cities tend to have way more options.

Restoration begins at purchase. Buy razors in the best condition you can afford. As Christian said do you want to put 5 hours into a $50 razor?

Buy good sandpaper, cut into 3-inch squares, (old paper cutter) mark the grit on the back, and change the paper once it stops cutting. For lower grits you can extend the life a bit, by blowing the load up off with compressed air.

Wrap the cork with 6mm craft foam, cut into 3inch pieces it is much easier on your fingers. With a 3 inch piece of sandpaper you can sand with one side up against the edge of the cork and roll the paper so you are always on fresh cutting abrasive, then flip the paper 180 degrees and repeat with fresh grit, rolling the cork and paper to use only fresh grit. Now flip the paper 90 degrees and repeat, then flip the paper 180, so you are always on fresh grit and you can use every inch of paper effectively.

Once it stops cutting, replace the paper.

Jimps are cleaned with a 3m Radial Bristle Disc, 60 grit the maroon ones work best. They will also get into corners, like stabilizers and between scales, if you do not un-pin. You can use wire wheels, but they throw wires.

Motored tools can speed up work or destroy it. There is a learning curve, and you can often tell when motors were used by loss of detail.

Cross grit sanding removes material faster and you get a more even finish.

WD40, Simple Green & Windex all work as a lubricant and resist flash rust like plain water will.


Here is an excellent Video by Nick Wheeler on hand sanding knives. He talks about flat, and his jigs and sanding sticks are made for flat sanding, which for a knife is important, not for a razor that very little is flat, but every thing else is spot on. Nick’s knives and finishes are spectacular, this is how he does it. He also has other videos on hand sanding. (Nick Wheeler Hand sanding Knives 101).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

That's a cool jig Mike. I on the other hand sand every blade, with very few exceptions, even if it is only with 2k. I think 2k w/d shines better than polish.

U should give the 3M metal restorer a try, some amazing stuff.





Done by rag in hand, in less than ten minutes.

@Euclid: Thank you for the useful tips and great video.

I have used wire wheels on jimps, even wire wheels with metal polish on, but still struggle to get jimps really clean I will look into the 3M radial bristle disc.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Restoration begins at purchase. Buy razors in the best condition you can afford. As Christian said do you want to put 5 hours into a $50 razor?
...

Luckily for me, this is not even a slight concern. I am interested in the process, learning and improving skills, finding a challenge, and experimenting. If I was even slightly concerned about the value of the finished article, I would be much better spending my time earning money and buying razors in top condition, instead of spending money on tools and equipment, spending time on research, and then spending time working on a razor. In fact, I may be better off not buying razors at all. That is not to say that some projects are not more worthwhile than others, but those criteria develop with time and experience. In fact, I am halfway through sanding another blade, which will never be worth anything, and in retrospect should just have been left alone. But I will finish it to a reasonable standard, and learn something in the process.

Originally Posted by outback

U should give the 3M metal restorer a try, some amazing stuff.





Done by rag in hand, in less than ten minutes.

Yeah, I have some a d use it with steel wool or a rag but I find 2k works better. Just my personal opinion

Originally Posted by Montgomery

@Euclid: Thank you for the useful tips and great video.

I have used wire wheels on jimps, even wire wheels with metal polish on, but still struggle to get jimps really clean I will look into the 3M radial bristle disc.



Luckily for me, this is not even a slight concern. I am interested in the process, learning and improving skills, finding a challenge, and experimenting. If I was even slightly concerned about the value of the finished article, I would be much better spending my time earning money and buying razors in top condition, instead of spending money on tools and equipment, spending time on research, and then spending time working on a razor. In fact, I may be better off not buying razors at all. That is not to say that some projects are not more worthwhile than others, but those criteria develop with time and experience. In fact, I am halfway through sanding another blade, which will never be worth anything, and in retrospect should just have been left alone. But I will finish it to a reasonable standard, and learn something in the process.

Good on you Montgomery! That is the typical argument heard about Gold Dollars too, and while it is very true from a money spent vs value standpoint, looking at it in that way misses the point.

Badger makes a modeling, hobby, soda blasting rig. It will clean jimps very clean, and very fast.