Thread: Need advice on pinning new scales

I do like Glenn and peen one end first, except that I use a Jacobs chuck from a drill press to hold the pin and peen one end, then do as he does cut the pin a bit long and file to length.

Here are 2 good videos on peening one from Charlie Lewis for quick, easy peening and another 3-part video by Nick Wheeler on pinning a knife handle. Nick is meticulous in his pinning; you can learn a lot from his method. He also has a great tutorial on hand sanding. Nick is known for his satin finished Bowie Knife blades.

Pinning is easier than it looks, just take your time, if you goof it up, unpin and do it again. After you pin a few, you get the hang of it, learn how to shape, and smooth the peen and adjust alignment.

If you drill your holes a bit larger than the pin, you will have some wiggle room for alignment and lessen the risk of splitting the scale, though horn is pretty forgiving. Practice by pinning 3 popsicle stick together, tight but not so tight you crack the sticks.

The problem with buying pre-drilled and pinned scales is you have no control over scale design and fit, where the blade will sit in the scales and how close or far the tip sits from the wedge. Also. if the wedge fits the taper of the tang.

How deep the blade sits in the scales is determined by the thickness of the wedge and should be fitted to the razor. Too thick and the razor can poke out the bottom, too thin and the fit looks awkward.

If the scales are pre-pinned to the wedge, you give up all the custom fitting and are stuck with where the blade sits in length and depth in the scales. All these fitting options can/will affect how the scales fit and operate. The scales must be in the proper tension to clear the tang and operate smoothly yet hold the pivot pin in proper tension for stropping and shaving.

Scales are much more than just fancy handles. There is method to the madness. Pinning is just a small part, a well thought out design and execution of details can make a big difference.

Here too is a post on making PETE thrust washers. I now use a hand-held leather punch in place of the plyer type. They make cleaner holes and I have way more control in punching the hole centered. The collars used in this post are just domed flat washers, made with a doming block.

Charlie Lewis

Nick Wheeler, the first video will take you to the second video.

How I made (PETE) Clear Plastic Thrust Washers