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Thread: Walking a W&B though the Buffers - Illustrated

  1. #41
    26. Hatter Engaging in Rhetoric Mijbil's Avatar
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    Thanks slartibartfast (i'm not sure what the "name" or nickname in there is - "bart"?) - well the Dremel certainly is more versatile, right? Can you elaborate a bit, please, on how buffers work better for you? I'm also curious what sorts of buffing compounds and the like you use with the buffing wheel? And do you use the buffing wheel, like many, only after sanding, or, like Glen, also in lieu of sanding with something like the Formax abrasives? Appreciate your help.

    Also, Sailor: the Dremel I ordered, in the mail, is variable speed 5000 - 35000 rpms. Hoping that will help....Even 5000 rpms seems tremendous, I mean hand sanding cant be more than 500? 700? I know its real hard to quantify/compare....

    Thanks, guys.

  2. #42
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    As you can see in the Workshop forum there are tons of threads with broken razors from Dremels...

    There is a catch to this though, Dremels are usually in inexperienced hands hence more accidents and damaged razors...

    Buffers are way, way, more dangerous to you !!!! Dremels are more dangerous to the razor !!

    If you are going to use a Dremel at least start with a heavy wedge razor sorta like the one in this thread,,, Always, always, always, keep the edge of the razor pressed on something, hell it can be a piece of soft pine it doesn't have to anything fancy...

    As soon as that edge comes off of that, in a split second one of two things can happen,,,

    1. You stop paying attention for whatever reason and you spin the wheel into the edge and Snap !!!!

    2. You keep paying attention but the Dremel does the "Spin and Snap" this is the move where you are cleaning up there by the spine and the Dremel spins all the way around the blade and Snap !!!!

    Needless to say you need to be careful of flying steel whether using a buffer or a Dremel...

    Dremels are also smaller, and by that I mean they do not do anything very uniform, you will have a hard time getting a nice even finish from them for quite awhile, that part takes practice, keeping the dremel moving, and the pressure consistent as you do...



    Oh and no the etching was not in good shape at all, the Macro lens picked it up way better than it really was....
    Last edited by gssixgun; 03-04-2010 at 07:21 PM.

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  4. #43
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Needless to say you need to be careful of flying steel whether using a buffer or a Dremel...

    That is what scares me. In buffing tattoo machine frames with a Baldor 3,450 RPM I've had a frame go whizzing by my ear and also been hit in the chest when I zoned out while buffing. A dremel is a lot faster at the slowest speed. I wouldn't worry that much about being hit with the work with a Dremel but , as Glen said, wrecking the blade. I know a member who took a chunk out of a 7/8 Wonderedge no less.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  5. #44
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    A mutual friend of Jimmy's and mine was a master at polishing with the dremel... He amazed me with what he could do with one on a razor....and I am pretty sure that is the guy that broke the Wonderedge...
    Last edited by gssixgun; 03-04-2010 at 07:38 PM.

  6. #45
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Great set up Glen, I am jealous.
    Just wondering how noisy is a buffer? I have been thinking of sneaking one in my apartment..
    Stefan

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  8. #46
    Damn hedgehog Sailor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mijbil View Post
    Also, Sailor: the Dremel I ordered, in the mail, is variable speed 5000 - 35000 rpms. Hoping that will help....Even 5000 rpms seems tremendous, I mean hand sanding cant be more than 500? 700? I know its real hard to quantify/compare....
    You can't really compare hand sanding vs hi rpm tools. With hands it takes a lot more time but is safer. Dremel ain't bad, but practice with something other than razors first. And wear safety goggles. I use Dremel mostly for carving patterns on wood.

    When sharpening/polishing real dull knives i use variable speed grinder with leather wheel on the same axle. Rpm is about 80-150. I wont use it with razors of course.
    'That is what i do. I drink and i know things'
    -Tyrion Lannister.

  9. #47
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Dude, that vacuum cleaner must get a serious workout when its time to use the rake on all those buffs
    Thanx for a V.I.P. (Very Informative Post.)
    I must get some of that greaseless. Nearly worn out all my dremel flapsanders

    PS Great job & nice healthy razor
    Last edited by onimaru55; 03-05-2010 at 01:22 AM.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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  11. #48
    26. Hatter Engaging in Rhetoric Mijbil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    A dremel is a lot faster at the slowest speed. I wouldn't worry that much about being hit with the work with a Dremel but , as Glen said, wrecking the blade. I know a member who took a chunk out of a 7/8 Wonderedge no less. :
    Maybe this will be come clear to me once I start working with it, but how do you take a chunk out of steel with just a polishing wheel? I can see it with a grinding wheel.

    Kevlar gloves: dope.

  12. #49
    Senior Member Stropper's Avatar
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    A great post,thread,and razor. Many thanks

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  14. #50
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mijbil View Post
    Maybe this will be come clear to me once I start working with it, but how do you take a chunk out of steel with just a polishing wheel? I can see it with a grinding wheel.

    Kevlar gloves: dope.
    If the high speed buff on a dremel catches the paper thin cutting edge of a razor it will grab it out of your fingers and maybe crack the blade. If, as my fore mentioned friend did, you have the tang in a vise firmly holding the blade, it is possible to take out a chunk .....especially when you get into 7/8 full hollows.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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