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Thread: Walking a W&B though the Buffers - Illustrated

  1. #51
    Maq
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    Senior Member Maq's Avatar
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    Default Bufing Bench

    Wow Glen,

    A buffng bench!!... Well it's worth it because the work you turn out if out of this world ... fantastic job... Thank you for sharring...

    Maq

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  3. #52
    Senior Member prosneek's Avatar
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    Now the question is--does your chair/stool have wheels on it so you can just roll from buffer to buffer?

  4. #53
    Ooo Shiny cannonfodder's Avatar
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    Most of my workshop is wall to wall wood working kit so I have to use a single buffer and swap wheels. I have a large Foly machine shop knife grinder and run a very similar progression. If you are worried about slicing a finger you can go to the sporting goods store and get a fillet glove. They are a non slip fabric woven around a stainless core to prevent cuts.

    I quit waring gloves when buffing. The big problem with them, the wheel can grab them. I can also feel the heat in the blade. A big problem with the compounds, if you get to aggressive you can heat a blade fast. To hot and you burn the temper right out. I will often work two or three blades at once. That way when one starts to get warm, I switch to another so it can cool. By the time I am on blade 3, blade 1 is ready for a second run.

    Make no bones about it, buffing blades can be very dangerous. If you mind wanders even for a moment bad things can happen. I alway make sure there is nothing behind the buffer that I do not want cut up. I will put a scrap sheet of plywood close to the output side of the buffer to stop things like flying greesless compounds or severed fingers. It keeps everything from flying across the shop and making a mess. Dont forget the respirator. I would skip the dust mask, get a real respirator. You do not want to be breathing plums of compound unless you just like visiting the hospital.

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  6. #54
    Senior Member Misunderstood's Avatar
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    WOW, what a shop. Thanks for the tutorial of the process. That razor is gorgeous as all of yours seem to be.

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    gssixgun (10-04-2010)

  8. #55
    Member prexpat's Avatar
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    Default Surface/Buffing non-ferrous

    As an enthusiast and practitioner of fine metallurgy, I would recommend either a well designed vacuum system or a respirator for any polishing!
    A "Dremel" hand tool is a good starter but if you're looking for a bit more juice and control, I would recommend using a Foredom; it gives you the ability to control speeds. Next would be a bench-top polishing unit with built-in filters. But definitely focusing and taking ones time is the most important.
    Last edited by prexpat; 01-10-2011 at 10:00 AM. Reason: missing image

  9. #56
    Senior Member Purvis's Avatar
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    Default

    Very Nice!

  10. #57
    Junior Member iwitness's Avatar
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    can you recomend anyting to get drool outa my key board!sweet shaver,gives me hope for the rust bucket i got off ebay

  11. #58
    Member Ducksfan's Avatar
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    I know this is an old thread, but maybe this will peek some interest. The reason for the post is because I have a similar "American Razor" who's tang stamp is almost gone. I was hoping to get your thoughts on who could have made this. On the spine of the razor in the ground out part, it says America Razor. The only visible letters on the tang stamp are "OT'S". The seller off of ebay thought it would be Joseph Elliot, and that makes sense to me, but have any of you seen this one before?
    Thanks for the help.
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  12. #59
    At Last, my Arm is Complete Again!! tinkersd's Avatar
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    I love that Blade!!

  13. #60
    Senior Member etorix's Avatar
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    heh, this has to be the best roomful of mops ive ever come across

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