Thread: Is anyone using a Planer ???

Actually the gap between both scales is about the size of the saw kerf therefore a perfect bookmatch!!
Why use a bandsaw and then the sanding jig when you can just rip it on the table saw and without having to sand it out for thickness?

Osdet That might very well be perfect,,, even the price is right assuming a Drill Press which I have...

what keeps the piece of wood from zinging across the room, or is it being pushed through against the direction of spin by you ???? That is what I think the pics show...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Osdet That might very well be perfect,,, even the price is right assuming a Drill Press which I have...

what keeps the piece of wood from zinging across the room, or is it being pushed through against the direction of spin by you ???? That is what I think the pics show...

Yes, you are pushing against the spin, I found that the combination of the Safe-t-planer and my home brew version of the jig, works a treat for me, you do have to keep the feed rate constant and make sure that the work is tight up to the fence, I attach short strips that need sanding to a piece of 18mm MDF with some double sided tape, I find it's a lot easier to feed the work through the jig.
BTW the dust extraction is mandatory, you would not believe the amount of dust this type of jig chucks out, I was in a hurry to try it out for the first time and didn't attach a hoover BIG mistake, the surrounding area including me looked like an explosion in a flour factory! I use a workshop hoover attached to the dust hood which works really well.

Originally Posted by Martin103

Actually the gap between both scales is about the size of the saw kerf therefore a perfect bookmatch!!
Why use a bandsaw and then the sanding jig when you can just rip it on the table saw and without having to sand it out for thickness?

If only it was that simple, the wider the kerf of the blade = more material removed between the two halves, and the greater the mis-match between them, the closest one can get to perfection are knife cut veneers, and even those aren't 100%

I have found that the only true way to make "veneer" of different thicknesses is to use a band saw. It is possible to get a very thin kerfed blade to make bookmatched pieces. I have a blade that leaves cutting lines on a piece of wood that are easily sanded out with 220 grit sandpaper. A thickness planer, for the most part, will have a minimum wood length of about 12" and that is a result of the distance of the pressure rollers.

Later,
R

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Osdet That might very well be perfect,,, even the price is right assuming a Drill Press which I have...

what keeps the piece of wood from zinging across the room, or is it being pushed through against the direction of spin by you ???? That is what I think the pics show...

Will Let you know how it works in a few days

Originally Posted by osdset

If only it was that simple, the wider the kerf of the blade = more material removed between the two halves, and the greater the mis-match between them, the closest one can get to perfection are knife cut veneers, and even those aren't 100%

With a thin kerf saw blade your cut is under 1/8, taking under consideration of the spacing between the scales you would end up
with a very close to perfect bookmatch and not having to go to the whole gama of different grits sandpaper.

Originally Posted by osdset

Yes, you are pushing against the spin, I found that the combination of the Safe-t-planer and my home brew version of the jig, works a treat for me, you do have to keep the feed rate constant and make sure that the work is tight up to the fence, I attach short strips that need sanding to a piece of 18mm MDF with some double sided tape, I find it's a lot easier to feed the work through the jig.
BTW the dust extraction is mandatory, you would not believe the amount of dust this type of jig chucks out, I was in a hurry to try it out for the first time and didn't attach a hoover BIG mistake, the surrounding area including me looked like an explosion in a flour factory! I use a workshop hoover attached to the dust hood which works really well.

If you could post a pic of your fence setup it would help a lot.
I do like your technique of using double sided tape on MDF to push the workpiece thru the drill press rotary planer. That being said a friend (Dresden) who is a machinist/millwright and familiar with these said to be very careful because those things can whack off your finger tips real easy.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

I do like your technique of using double sided tape on MDF to push the workpiece thru the drill press rotary planer. That being said a friend (Dresden) who is a machinist/millwright and familiar with these said to be very careful because those things can whack off your finger tips real easy.

This is what I don't need to hear...

Perhaps no matter what solution I use the fingertips will always be at risk...

here is a Youtube video of these....

O'Brien Guitars - Luthier Tips du Jour - Safe-T-Planer - YouTube