Thread: Can this be fixed

Thank you everyone. I know that the picture can be misleading sometimes I realized later I should have added a penny or something in the photo for perspective.
I am going to consider what to do with it and if I want to tackle it myself yet. If it seems to daunting I will pass it on.

Thanks again,

Scott

That chip will be easy to remove, and there will be plenty of blade left. Don't be discouraged!

I would not say that the chip would be easy to remove. It is easier to grind it out than to hone it out. You will probably lose about 1/8 inch of blade width regardless, but certainly the blade will still be usable.

Have fun.

The glass is half full my friend.. You have a new razor that is designed to go around moles.... I am jus kidding of course, i do hate to see some break a blade. I am attached to my blades also... Sometimes it is best to call it a wash.. Saying that, it loos like it could be saved, you would loose a lot ofmquality though.

I must defer to Mr. Abrams.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Just so long as there are no stress cracks radiating from the chip, yes it will come right out...

Since there is no way to add steel back YET it means you have to hone it out and that the edge will be set back to the bottom of the chip if you do it right..
The heel will need a recontour also, basically you are adding decades of use to the razor so everything has to equal out...

How you get to the bottom of that chip and re-contour the entire edge is the only question, also if the blade is a double hollow grind you will change the feel as you will get into the belly of the blade.. It really doesn't matter as the blade is trash now so "Go For It"...


From your pm, I am not sure if that answered all the questions...

Originally Posted by Lynn

I would not say that the chip would be easy to remove. It is easier to grind it out than to hone it out. You will probably lose about 1/8 inch of blade width regardless, but certainly the blade will still be usable.

Have fun.

Originally Posted by fahnreich

Can this be fixed or is it a letter opener now? It is a 11/16 blade that is an extra hollow grind with the damage reaching about half way up the secondary bevel (?) of the blade.Attachment 102055

Hey There

As Lynn Said, I would also grind the blade width to the level of the chip, whilst I was doing that the Heel would get it's facelift as Glen recommended. You need to make sure that if you grind instead of honing the chip out that you take care to not change the temper of the blade. To make the final honing easier, I like to make sure I remove the correct amount of steel from the spine of the blade too. This makes maintaining the correct bevel angle easier IMO. You can read about that here Good luck, can we see pics when you are done

Carl.

Originally Posted by straightrazorheaven

To make the final honing easier, I like to make sure I remove the correct amount of steel from the spine of the blade too. This makes maintaining the correct bevel angle easier IMO.

There is a very long thread about Bevel Angle where many of us took the time to actually measure the angles on razors that were shaving...
The mean number was as expected about 16° the part the was more interesting was that the angles ranged from 12° through 23° which we were all rather surprised that the quite large variation of angles that shaved just fine... Unless the edge is really having a problem, I would not recommend introducing spine wear into the mix.. Even with 1/8 of an inch gone you are still well within the spectrum...

Originally Posted by straightrazorheaven

........ To make the final honing easier, I like to make sure I remove the correct amount of steel from the spine of the blade too. This makes maintaining the correct bevel angle easier ...............

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Originally Posted by Hirlau

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LOL I had some problems when I first started out ... and using that method made all those problems go away (when I reduced the blade width by any portion). I just prefer to be in control of all the variables from the outset, some may not like it but I prefer doing it that way and so far (touches wood) I haven't had any complaints That is not to say it's THE way to do it, it's MY way of doing it. Just thought I would give my opinion, and then the OP can decide what they thinks best for them

Just breadboard it to smooth on a DMT, Then, using a layer of tape, hone it for a half-day on the same DMT. THEN start on a 1000 or so. Then hone it. No Sweat! Shaver! That! see ya next month!