Thread: vacuum chamber

I guess I should add that I read so many warnings about these imploding (No Proof pics BTW) that the first time I drew down the vaccum I had it in a Tuperware Box just in case...

Have not had an issue myself...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

I have been using the Daly's for Dense Woods (Cocobolo, Lignum, Ebony etc: )
I have been using Polyurethane for all the rest.. I keep them in seperate Pickle Jars and just move the top around so far no issues with the finish going bad

I have a few Brush customers that have been updating me on their treated wood brushes along with my personal ones, and so far so good the finish is holding very well, I am pretty happy with the results overall..


The only downside is you better like Pickles I even found they same Jar with Jalapeno's hehehe we are well stocked on both


ps: There is a solution out there called "Cactus Juice" that gets very high reviews, but dang they are very proud of it

what kind of polyurethane do you use?

There are two other products to consider, besides poly. One is "Cactus Juice", the other is "ZK-TR90".
Both are probably the same thing - a heat setting liquid. Vacuum them in, and heat cure in a toaster oven at 200 F. This way you don't have issues with poly curing from the inside out. So far, my experience with this is theoretical - I haven't got my stabilizing set up yet, but this is what I have learned from internet searches, and conversations with folks that have done it.
The vacuum then pressure system works - probably best with thin wood, like scales. I will also be using it for brush handles, so the "take forever to dry in the middle" may be more of a problem for me. Good luck, and keep us informed.

Just ordered Cactus Juice.Made a small system similar to Glens using a mason jar.Am using wipe on Poly as thats what I had on hand.
Doing some various woods and scraps of Ivory,will be in touch.

Pixel, check the utube videos showing vacuuming in Cactus Juice or TR90, if you haven't already. You need space for enough liquid to cover your wood, plus enough to allow for what goes into the wood. There is a lot of foam at the beginning of the process, and you need a weight to hold the material down. A mason jar may not have enough volume to allow for this. I'm going to get the "jar" that kennedycustomcalls sells, and use TR90. Let's keep sharing the process.

I studied them all,thank you for the additional site.
Am thinking this is real simple stuff and need to keep costs down to a minumum.Have ordered the Cactus juice,am just going with a one Qt, Mason Jar,In my mind Vac is vac so the hand device seems to work well,keep ya posted.

Originally Posted by skipnord

Pixel, check the utube videos showing vacuuming in Cactus Juice or TR90, if you haven't already. You need space for enough liquid to cover your wood, plus enough to allow for what goes into the wood. There is a lot of foam at the beginning of the process, and you need a weight to hold the material down. A mason jar may not have enough volume to allow for this. I'm going to get the "jar" that kennedycustomcalls sells, and use TR90. Let's keep sharing the process.

My Brush blanks are rarely over 3in long,1qt Mason is about 8 tall.I Think it will work out.I have alot of anchorsealed wood in stock,all extreame hardwoods which will take far longer than scales or penblanks.
My plan is to process one 2x2x12 stick a day.I really like how the juice and TR90 works,real quick.

Thanks, Pixel
I assume you are cutting your brush blanks to length???? I'm going to get Kennedy Calls glass tank that is about 4 1/2 x 22 high. It may be overkill, but it will be more flexible to use. It also has the ability to vacuum blanks dry, and then add the liquid under pressure, so there is less foaming. I'll order it the end of the month.

Originally Posted by skipnord

Thanks, Pixel
I assume you are cutting your brush blanks to length???? I'm going to get Kennedy Calls glass tank that is about 4 1/2 x 22 high. It may be overkill, but it will be more flexible to use. It also has the ability to vacuum blanks dry, and then add the liquid under pressure, so there is less foaming. I'll order it the end of the month.

Ballpark size for a solid wood brush,If doing composits of diff woods I may only need an inch off the blank,nothing go's to waste tho.
All the prepwork is done on my metal lathe,some I turn between centers, some not.
I also coat the inside bore with CA,always have,several coats.
Many ways to do this stuff.I buy all my woods either Kiln dried or long term air dried and than work around the checks and such.
Stabilized wood seems the way to go,am just glad we can do it in our home shops with some simple Equip.

Thanks, Pixel
I copied your idea of using a spur center, plus I added a glued piece of pine that the spur center pounds into - that way I can cut my blanks to length, and not have any waste when I turn. Can even finish on the lathe before I cut the end off. Finish the ends after I cut off the pine. Works better that anything else i've tried so far.