Thread: Experimenting with some jointing techniques

i only "edge" blades when they are chippy or crumbly, usually vintage blades with hone wear were the bevel got to thin, I edge those type blades and add two layers of tape and it's usually problem solved.

Originally Posted by Utopian

And that is all that matters.


Have you done all of them as you described above? That is, did you join/joint on the 1k and then use your nail after higher grits? Have you considered doing one and not the other, and vice versa, to figure out which is contributing to the improvement?

Yes I've used the same routine for all of them. I've done enough to see that I'm consistently getting positive results, and I plan to do some more experimenting as you've described above. Right now I'm thinking that the fingernail before the finisher will be the one that has the biggest impact. Should have it figured out in a few more days. I'm trying to be very thorough as this may change my routine in the future. I don't want to add an extra step for the next several years that's not doing anything for me.

I, like you, thought that jointing was silly and made no sense. It seems to have proven itself useful in my routine though. I do use Japanese/half stokes when setting bevels instead of the more popular circle method. I always switch to heel forward and x strokes when the bevel starts to come in. Perhaps this is somehow correcting a condition that I didn't know was an issue in my routine.

I'm really having fun with this. My honing seems to have hit a plateau for the last year or so and it's exciting to be taking another step forward. It's a baby step, but a step none the less.

Only time I use a high angle or breadknife stroke is if I'm re-profiling a frown etc.

I've tried jointing but found that light strokes on the next stone removes any burr created during edge restoration/bevel set, however, I do like the Iwasaki felt & CrO method at end game if I have pulled a slight burr at the higher grits. I find it cleans edges right up & 2 or 3 strokes on the finisher restore the edge. Dovo white paste on linen works well too.

Originally Posted by BeJay

I, like you, thought that jointing was silly and made no sense. It seems to have proven itself useful in my routine though. I do use Japanese/half stokes when setting bevels instead of the more popular circle method. I always switch to heel forward and x strokes when the bevel starts to come in. Perhaps this is somehow correcting a condition that I didn't know was an issue in my routine.

I'm really having fun with this. My honing seems to have hit a plateau for the last year or so and it's exciting to be taking another step forward. It's a baby step, but a step none the less.

Just to be clear, I have experimented with it a lot. I probably have spent more time looking at edges under a microscope than maybe all but a few other people on this forum. I did not dismiss it out of hand. I have found it to be of no benefit to MY honing. I never have told anyone not to do it, but I have told a few that it is not needed all the time. Apparently you may have come to disagree with that, and that's fine with me.

My objection earlier in this thread was to the continued attempt to justify joining/jointing by connecting it with the Iwasaki treatise.

“I do not see anything in the geometry involved in honing to merit joining or jointing ever.”

“I never have told anyone not to do it”

“If you like your Doctor, you can…”

BJ, try running the edge through a cut piece of hard felt or edge of a cork, do not cut the felt or cork, just run it through a ready-made cut on a finished or pre finished edge.

So doing this.is taking the edge across the corner on the side of the stone? Or on the side? And is this a full stroke or just a few mm.

Just trying to understand this. It was a long read but if it works or not im guessing depends on the person doing it. So how is this done in detail?

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“I do not see anything in the geometry involved in honing to merit joining or jointing ever.”

“I never have told anyone not to do it”

“If you like your Doctor, you can…”

Do you see any problem comprehending the first and second quotes of mine? If you want to continue this, deal with it head on for once. Stop the personal attacks and just stick with the actual topic. If you disagree with me about something related to honing, then for once have the nerve to deal with the actual topic.

But if you want to dissect my comments, then go for it.

Do you notice that the first one said "I do not see..." Get it? I expressed MY OWN PERSONAL OPINION based upon my own experience. I don't claim it to be "right." It's just my opinion and it is not of any more or less value than anyone else's here, but I have a right to say it until Lynn or some moderator here says otherwise.

And regarding the second one, no, to the best of my recollection I never have told anyone not to do what you are constantly pushing.

Can you comprehend the difference? I gave MY opinion about the efficacy of a technique. That's it. Nothing more. If you want to keep making something more of it, then go for it, but try to figure out a way to stay on topic without personal attacks.

For everyone else not involved in this ridiculous pettiness, I apologize for the distraction.

Originally Posted by Gasman

So doing this.is taking the edge across the corner on the side of the stone? Or on the side? And is this a full stroke or just a few mm.

Just trying to understand this. It was a long read but if it works or not im guessing depends on the person doing it. So how is this done in detail?

To avoid damaging the top honing surface, you do it on any corner that does meet with the top. You LIGHTLY touch the edge of the blade to that corner, starting at the heel, and then drag it LIGHTLY along the entire length of the blade making sure to move it in a straight line parallel to the blade. Some people only do it once. Some do it twice. I don't know of anyone who recommends doing it more than twice.

Another material to try is an old wooden matchstick/basswood/soft wood. This has occasionally worked for me in the past. Just something to try but usually only after the bevel has been set.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Another material to try is an old wooden matchstick/basswood/soft wood. This has occasionally worked for me in the past. Just something to try but usually only after the bevel has been set.

I think it may be the Dovo video , shows them using some leather or horn maybe ?