Thread: Righty Tighty; Lefty Loosey

Shave # 200 - Bi-Centennial Shave

Well, Happy Anniversary to me -- 200 straight razor shaves and counting. I admit, I'm a bit slow, it took over 2 years to get here, but still it's a milestone, and deserves a bit of celebrating...

L'Occitane Shave Soap
Semogue 2012
Geo Wostenholm & Son IXL 5/8" (6)
Alum
Thayer`s Extra Cool Witchhazel
PAA CaD
LÒccitane Cedre & Oranger AS Balm
Osage Rub (in the hair)
Galimard Double Zero Cologne

...so, I did a 4-pass luxury shave, with a little extra cleanup on the neck. It was quite a sumptuous shave -- something I haven`t done for a longtime. I gave myself a very thorough post-shave pampering, partly just to celebrate the 200th shave, and partly because I`m unused to such an intensive shave, so I feared for my skin. Actually, it seems like my skin will be fine. I`m BBS and my skin feels pretty comfortable. I was surprised, but the shave itself was pretty quick, under 40 minutes including cleanup. I definitely thought it would chew up more time, as I was purposely shaving slowly (going for maximum enjoyment), and many of today`s strokes and angles I probably haven`t done for over a year, but it didn`t feel awkward, nor did it slow me down.



My State of the Shave Address

The first 100 straight razor shaves represents the real learning curve for gaining technique and knowledge in straight razor shaving. Surprisingly, the subsequent 100 shaves has seen a surprising amount of change and transition. Since most the learning was done in shaves #1 – 100, I’m surprised by how much things have changed from shaves #101 – 200. I suppose that many of the changes simply reflect straight razor shaving becoming routine, others are me becoming clearer in my own mind about exactly what I prefer. Some of the changes over the last 100 shaves include:

 During the first 100 shaves, I really didn’t have a routine worked out for my shave prep. I tried numerous things. Now, normally: I soak my face with a wet shave towel (cool water) for 1 minute; then I load my brush; I take any soap that might be dripping away from the puck, over the sides of the bowl, etc. and apply it to may face; scrub the soap into my face with my fingers; rewet the shave towel and hold it against my face (1minute); face lather and then shave. It is quick, minimalistic, and works well for me. Over the last 100 shaves, I’ve moved away from fancy pre-shave rituals and shave prep products. I have some of these products, and just have never gotten much out of them (YMMV).

 When I first began straight razor shaving, I had very little product, I had a TOBS badger brush and a bit of L’Occitane CADE shave soap. Taiwan is a terrible place to try to buy shave-related items, but through the miracle of the internet, and my wife’s frequent Canadian business trips, I have managed to acquire a lot of great soaps, AS splashes, and balms, during my last 100 shaves. It has improved my shave experience, and makes me more interested in shaving.

 I moved from bowl lathering to face lathering. Sad to admit, as I’ve been a wet-shaver my entire life, I’ve always used a puck and brush – but, I never knew how to build a lather – what’s more, I didn’t know you were supposed to build a lather. (I used to simply get some soap on my brush, and put it on my face). So, during the first 100 shaves I learned to lather, mostly using a bowl. Over the last 100 shaves, I’ve found myself moving to face lathering. It is quicker, more convenient, and, in my opinion, better preps the beard.

 Now, I almost never do more than a 2 pass shave, with a bit of extra clean up around the neck. For the first 100 shaves, I tended to do a 3-4 pass shave, usually 4, now that seems like a tremendous fuss for not a lot of gain. My 2.5 pass shave will consistently get me a good solid DFS (if I shave every day, then I will often get BBS).

 During the first 100 shaves, I strove for BBS. I think because I regarded it as tangible evidence of how well, or poorly, my shave had gone. I got pretty ingenious about exactly how to attack my growth: Pass 1 -- N-S, guillotining towards the nose, and barber-poling the neck, N-S, left-to-right; Pass 2 -- ear-to-nose, scything, and barber-poling the neck, N-S, right-to-left; Pass 3 -- nose-to-ears, scything, and barber-poling neck, S-N, left-to-right; Pass 4 -- S-N, guillotining towards nose, and barber-poling the neck, S-N, right-to-left; and, Pass 4.5 -- a touch up pass on the neck, normally I tried some pretty random things to get the neck clean. I pretty consistently achieved a BBS shave, but what a PITA! Now, I almost never try for BBS. I’m content with a bit quicker shave in the DFS to BBS range. Here’s my current shave routine: Pass 1 -- face N-S, maybe a bit of guillotining towards the nose (but I’m not so conscious of it), left side of the neck N-S (maybe guillotining towards nose), and on the right side of the neck I follow the predominant grain of the hair, which kind of goes downwards at maybe a 45 degree angle towards the ear; Pass 2 -- S-N on the right side of the neck, going upwards, towards the nose at approximately a 45 degree angle, on this part of my neck I am able to hold the blade at approximately 30-45 degrees to the floor, allowing for a true ATG pass, the rest of the face and neck are S-N, with a pretty pronounced guillotine stroke, towards the nose, on the cheeks; and, Pass 2.5 -- a clean-up pass on the neck involving scything the right side of the neck, from right-to-left, aiming to cut parallel to the floor, holding the razor in my left hand I can get the blade perpendicular to the floor on the left side of my neck, so scything is unnecessary. My current routine gives me a decent, sometimes BBS, shave in a short amount of time, with no chance for razor burn.

 I’m no longer a chronic faceturbator.

 During the first 100 shaves I used the guillotine stroke a lot, and never really scythed. Over the last 100 shaves I’ve begun incorporating scything into my regular routine. It is particularly helpful to try to get the sideways growing hair on my neck.

 I’ve figured out ways of pulling/stretching my skin that give me more of a chance to utilize scything to get a virtually ATG pass on the sideways growing hairs on my neck.

 Over the last 100 shaves, I have gained enough awareness and sensitivity to be able to intelligently vary my shave routine to accommodate changes in skin condition brought on by climatic factors, or other issues. I now cool water shave 80% - 90% of the time. My skin appreciates it during Taiwan’s hot and/or humid days. If I’m experiencing skin sensitivity issues, possibly brought on by sunburn, heat rash, etc., I move towards using soap with a very clean ingredient list, until the skin becomes less sensitive. Usually this means using an artisan soapmaker’s product, as they generally avoid the preservatives that are necessary in mass produced soaps. It is these preservatives that seem to aggravate my skin. Normally it is not an issue, and I can happily use mass produced soap, but if some other factor has made my skin sensitive, then the preservatives in the soap will greatly aggravate the issue for me. With the extreme heat and humidity I deal with much of the year, I’ve realized that splashes work better than balms for me during all but the coldest 2-3 months.

 I have begun honing and am now a self-sufficient shaver – a big deal for me. The acquisition of some hones has allowed me to do my first perfunctory restore, the ERN, which I’m currently shaving with, and I have a Boker waiting to be restored. The honing not only makes me self-sufficient, but has allowed me to increase my razor collection cheaply. I got some decent antique shop razors last time I was in Canada, they just needed a light cleaning and a honing.

 I’ve found that checking the effects of different honing styles, hones, routines, etc., on edge feel can really revitalize interest in getting into the shave den and pulling out a straight razor.

 Straight razor shaving has become very routine. I can crank out a 2.5 pass shave pretty quickly with an expectation of a good result. When I’m truly rushed, or over-burdened, I tend to favor the DE, but the DE is only nominally quicker and more efficient. Mostly during those times I prefer the DE because I’m not in the right frame of mind to enjoy a straight razor shave. In terms of time spent on the shave, it’s very close.

 That said, over the period of my last 100 straight razor shaves, I’ve really fallen in love with DE shaving. It is a relatively quick efficient way to enjoy single-edge shaving. My DE results are normally better than my straight results, if for no other reason than it is easier to get my neck clean.


To those of you who have been reading my journal for these 200 (straight) shaves, I thank you for coming along for the ride.

Shave #200.1 - Putting the Wildness Behind Us

Well, I'm finally coming down off that 200-shave high. Good times, good times. ;-)

PPF Sandalwood Shave Soap
Semogue 2012
Edwin Jagger DE89L + Feather (2)
Captain's Choice Bay Rum
Gentlemen's Tonic AS Balm

A pre-work BBS.

Shave#200.2 - The Folks Are Coming

My parents will be arriving in Taipei around 5am tomorrow. So, I thought I'd grab a quick shave now, between the various chores I have to do before they arrive.

PPF Sandalwood Soap
TOBS Badger Brush
Edwin a Jagger DE89L + Feather (3)
PAA CaD
Gentlemen's Tonic AS Balm

Ok - good to go! (A very comfortable BBS).

I appreciate you sharing your shaving journal with the rest of us. I especially enjoyed your retrospective on your 200th shave. Here's to 200 more!

Shave #201 - Not so Great

Thanks for the encouragement Corey. I have been wondering about this journal, it's reached the point where I don't have much to say - just shaved, it was successful, shaved again, not bad,.... So, I appreciate the support, kinda keeps me rolling along.

PPF Sandalwood Shave Soap
Semogue 2012
DOVO Palisander 6/8" (9)
Captain's Choice Bay Rum
C&E West Indian Lime AS Balm

A quick 2-passer, but not my best result, DFS-/CCS. My parents are staying with me in our little hovel, and maybe it was hard to concentrate with so much nearby activity, also the blade is almost due for a refresh.

Shave #201.1 - Kenting Shave

So, we brought my parents down to Kenting, on the southern tip of Taiwan, for a couple days. We're staying in a luxurious place on the beach. Afterwards, we'll head to Taitung, on the east coast, for a couple days. As usual, I didn't really know what to bring for travel shave gear, and I needed to pack lighter than usual, so I went with...

Speick Shave Stick
TOBS Badger Brush
Edwin Jagger DE89L + Personna Precision (1)
C&E West Indian Lime AS Balm

I have a bit of a bias towards artisan soap makers, but I'll tell ya, that Speick is a darn fine soap -- rich, creamy, slick and voluminous. I did my normal routine, and I'm DFS++, just slightly outside BBS territory. Possibly a result of using a blade that I don't use very often.

Shave #201.2 - Soft Water

Another shave in Kenting, I didn't honestly need it, but trying to burn the blade before I need to dump it and pack.

C&E West Indian Lime Shave Cream
TOBS Badger Brush
Edwin Jagger DE89L + Personna Precision (2)
C&E West Indian Lime AS Balm

I also brought my C&E Shave Cream with me. I never use it, because it is not a great performer, but I adore the smell. I brought it because I thought it's good enough for DE shaving, and I should burn through it. But, shock of shocks, it actually performed well. It whipped up a thick lather with reasonable cushion and glide. I guess the water here is super soft. It is still not a world-beater, but reasonable, and I sure do love the smell.

Another 3.5-passer, and another DFS++(ish).

Shave #201.3 - In Taitung

We moved up the east coast to Taitung. It is cold-ish here, right now, so after a hot bath, I proceeded to do a hot water shave.

Speick Shave Stick
TOBS Badger Brush
Edwin Jagger DE89L + Personna Precision (1)
C&E East Indian Lime AS Balm

Well, I don't know, the more I use the DE, the more fussy I get about the blades. I remember these Personnas as being okay, but I'm not enjoying them right now. I'm around about BBS, but the blade was burny and I struggled to get a close shave. It feels like my skin could use an AS splash, but I'm not traveling with one.

Just this morning I am pondering making some home made Bay Rum after shave.

Go for it! That'd be awesome.