Thread: 51 MG restoration.

I think a new seal would be a good idea at this time. Regardless of next winter.
JMO

Got one on order, cause I figure it had to experience some undue stretching even if it was slight. In that picture above item 5 are shims which I never removed. They dictate alignment of the timing sprocket when the front bolt is torqued up to 150 ft/lbs.
Timing chain looks in great shape and has less than .4” play so is still within specs. Tensioner is a spring steel “tongue” of sorts. Never seen one like that before, but it too shows minimal slide wear. All supports it’s a low running time on the engine since it was rebuilt in the 70s.
Still feel she will benefit from at least a partial this winter, if that tranny work happens, but will continue to enjoy her this season, once the parts arrive.
Amazon promised me tomorrow. Fingers crossed ��

Keep in mind 3 degrees of cam timing, advanced or retarded will change power from low end to high end advantage.
If a new or 'made' key will eliminate that, would be best. TDC is TDC.

I like my cams advanced 3 degrees as I like the low end torque.
But that is not a Triumph 4 cylinder.

I hope you can find a new of custom key as that, in my mind, is much more important than a slight leak. It sounds like you are doing what is best so who am I to jump in? I just wanted to toss it out there.

If you look close at that Drawing you will see that the timing sprocket, and the fan hub are each on their own woodruff keys on the crank.
The inner key engages the timing sprocket, and there is zero play on that sprocket. The outer key drives the fan hub and is the one that experienced some side slop. The pulley halves and the fan extension itself loosened off on their retention bolts and wobbled such that I noticed when tensioning the alt belt which led me this deep into the front, but none of that actually affects timing, only electrical charging.
So while my indication of tdc may be off a degree or two, the timing itself won’t be. With the timing cover off I realigned the cam and crank position marks so will be able to reassemble and tighten everything at true tdc #1. Set static timing to book value of 4’ BTDC, then on that vernier adjustment on the distributor get it perfect by driving.
I think I should even be able to lock the pulley on the correct original hash marks as that is held in by 6 bolts so should find home pretty straight forwardly as well.
Will know after work if Amazon comes through.
Appreciate the suggestions as always gents. That loctite, new seal, and proper bolt should be an improvement in smoothness, if not reliability and longevity.

Cool! It's a good thing you caught that when you did!

Ok, maybe it’s in my head, but it seems smoother, especially at the top end in 4th above 4000rpm now.
I had this strange shudder that I felt in the dash but didn’t see in the fenders or feel in the steering, that’s gone now.

Gained almost enough room to reinstall that oil cooler that was installed originally when I got the car. Not sure I need it though as she sits around 175 while driving her.

And that grade 8 cad coated bolt does the trick just fine.
Been back an hr after a good half hour rip, no leaks that I can see.
Great relief all around as if in fact that vibration is gone, my top end limitation may in fact be lifted..

Nothing like a loose, heavy, unbalanced turd off the front of the crank, Eh?

Sleep tight, Mike. Tomorrow is another day. You know.


I got the Waterloo over here. Somebody put a hydraulic cam and left the heavy solid cam valve springs. Going full low torque hydraulic and much less converter stall.



Smoked a lifter smoothly. Tight springs!

Damn that is dished! A dimpling block now maybe?
Sweet looking front end on that ride that is Tom.
So envy your shop too!

Grab some popcorn!
https://youtu.be/4gN2mD6mFXs

And here’s a lil before/after of my car from where she started.

Basically the same, but tighter..