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Thread: 51 MG restoration.

  1. #2061
    STF
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    Senior Member blabbermouth STF's Avatar
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    OHIP (Ontario) doesn't cover dentist, hearing or glasses either. It covers anything hospital, blood tests, and meds and filling fees if you're over 65 except for $4.11 co pay.
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  2. #2062
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Decided I needed to take my front end off again and deal with a vibration and possible cause of one of my chronic drips.
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    The engine originally had a mechanical fan, I switched to electric but left the extension for the blades as the hub wouldn’t cooperate at the time.
    Well, guess she decid to slowly work loose on her main attachment bolt, which happens to be the one I wrongly thought was the hand crank starter casting and I cut off for clearance when I dropped the engine.
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    I wanted to remove all that useless mass in front of the pulley anyway and the vibrations at higher revs wasn’t going to help the crankshaft balance and smoothness of ride if I wait till the winter, so dug in.
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    I am going to need to find a 5/8 unf 1” bolt and washer now to lock everything back to the crankshaft, but will eliminate about 8 lbs of solid forged fan extension as well as eliminating any slop on the woodruff key.
    Just means no joy rides this weekend..
    Cheers.
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  3. #2063
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I may have that bolt/washer. So was the pulley moving around too? Any slop?
    Was the front seal what was leaking oil?
    Inquiring minds.....
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    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Yessir the pulley was wobbling, as was the big extension piece. That’s what brought it to my attention and it was working the oil past the sling ring and getting through the seal. Caused some high Rev vibrations too I reckon.
    The original bolt is like 5” long, I’ll be replacing it with a 1” bolt as that extension piece is now worthy of melting down only.
    5/8-18 tpi is unf I believe so I should be able to source something local. Hope so anyway.
    Pulled the timing cover and laid a fresh bead of silicone while I was that closes as well
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    Senior Member blabbermouth nessmuck's Avatar
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    Do they have specialty car insurance up there…I have Haggerty on my 67 GTO and 64 Grand Prix .

  6. #2066
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    I’m with Haggerty as well.
    Great rates and coverage for vintage rides for sure.
    "If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice."
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    https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5

  7. #2067
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I have 3 cars and 2 bikes with Hagerty.
    31 Model A pickup, 67 Sunbeam Tiger, and 74 Plymouth Barracuda. 71 Honda Z50 and 65 Triumph TR6C.
    Getting pricey since they went public. 1370.00 a year. I split it bi-annually.

    They are always sending me emails I should increase value. Told me last week I should increase value of the Z50 to 7 grand!
    Wonder if they would buy it for 6?

    So if the front timing cover seal seals on the pulley hub and the hub is loose on the crank, I wonder if the pulley is supposed to be a press-fit on the crank like most engines? If so, you might consider that Loctite press-fit stuff between the hub and the crank? mebbe a new key for the keyway.. New seal. Tighten the dogshit out of it. Loctite the threads!

    https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-55533.../dp/B00070LQW4
    Last edited by sharptonn; 08-07-2022 at 04:04 PM.

  8. #2068
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Nice assortment of toys Tom. My branch of Haggerty had the mg on a graduated value scale. Slowly increasing as I restored her.
    As per the manual looks like the timing gear, and fan pulley hub were slip fit, and aligned by the woodruff key but locked by the starter dog bolt.
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    Think the play in my hub is now only the side abuse the key took. Keyway looks great still.
    Have maybe 3’ play now in the hub, not the crank, so figure I will split the difference when I torque it up and compensate with the pulley halves.
    Ended up ordering some bolts and washers on Amazon. Will be here tomorrow.
    And not stupid pricey.
    "If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice."
    Geddy Lee
    https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5

  9. #2069
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    3' play? Don't understand. if a hub wallows on the crank, not good. is the inside of the hub or crank snout where hub goes on damaged ?
    The loctite will do it if it is not too much. If the hub is still tight on the crank snout some silicone sealer at minimum to keep oil from creeping out there.
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  10. #2070
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    No slop, but3 degrees of play on the key rotationally due to the impact on the sides of the key itself I think.
    Going to see if I have any the right size at work but fear it’s an odd British size. Dodged a bullet on the play as it would have eventually destroyed the seal, pulley hub, and possibly damaged the crank end itself in time, but none of that came to pass as it was only starting to get some play in it.
    I will need a new set of seals if I do rebuild her next winter, but for now, will try to get by with that loctite and proper bolt engagement.
    cudarunner likes this.
    "If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice."
    Geddy Lee
    https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5

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