Thread: 51 MG restoration.

I keep enjoying following your project.

But maybe it would have been easier to get a serial number plate, blueprints, and start from scratch.

I got that Tim.

But this Franken-Brit creation will be a peppy ripper that turns heads, and is reliable.
We found each other, this old car and me. Twas fate I figure.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

I got that Tim.

But this Franken-Brit creation will be a peppy ripper that turns heads, and is reliable.
We found each other, this old car and me. Twas fate I figure.

I think so also! Just had to give you a hard time.

Similar to a rusty bug bit scale razor to restore.

Economically not reasonable but when it gets done and looks good. Then you get that BBS with it.

Originally Posted by 32t

Economically not reasonable but when it gets done and looks good.

Funny how often that applies to the best of projects!

It is the way it is, if it’s fun and you like it, price has not even entered in the equation, for example my rebuild of my bike, a 2003 anniversary Fatboy in mint condition worth maybe 8k, this winter I spent over 3k, and that’s not counting the 10k that’s in the engine and drivetrain. Take into account what I paid when it was new 15k, I’m way in the hole, but it’s priceless to me

Originally Posted by tcrideshd

It is the way it is, if it’s fun and you like it, price has not even entered in the equation, for example my rebuild of my bike, a 2003 anniversary Fatboy in mint condition worth maybe 8k, this winter I spent over 3k, and that’s not counting the 10k that’s in the engine and drivetrain. Take into account what I paid when it was new 15k, I’m way in the hole, but it’s priceless to me

And that's what it's all about! Amazing how many people just don't understand that concept...

That fat boy is one of a kind, worth every penny from what I’ve seen as well.

Busted out the mapp gas and lead to try to clean up the rear tubs old school.

Clean the area really well and apply the paste. Then wash it down with baking soda and water. Then reheat the area and apply the lead to the area and spread like icing.


Hard to keep stuck to the vertical surfaces, but files off quite well.


Will do i think, the slight blemishes left will take some glazing putty, at a later stage.
It’s a trick to work compared to bondo but I think it’ll get easier as I do more spots. The key is leave no low spots!! No going back to reapply lead as far as I can tell
Love how it files out.
Cheers gents.

Looking Good

While some with more experience than I have with applying lead may digress, however I was taught that you needed to make sure that you had more than enough lead applied the first time as it was nearly impossible to get any additional applications to stick to the original. I believe that it was due to not being able to heat deep enough or such. But it's been a long, long time since my instructor talked about it.

Just for shites and giggles, here's the legendary custom car builder Bill Hines applying lead well into his years--



There are several articles about him online, most have pictures, he was quite a guy.

careful with that lead Mike. Bill was only 30 in this video.....

Originally Posted by Johntoad57

careful with that lead Mike. Bill was only 30 in this video.....

Damn funny,, thx!

And that vid actually helped a bit with my application.
I was heating the base metal more than the solder, hence the runs vertically, and melting the lead via heat transfer.
Tried as he shows, melting the bar into globs that drop, then heating the base and smoothing everything out, way easier control.
I was even successful at reapplying and reworking some already applied, so that is possible.

Good share Roy, thanks..