Page 84 of 249 FirstFirst ... 347480818283848586878894134184 ... LastLast
Results 831 to 840 of 2485
Like Tree8801Likes

Thread: 51 MG restoration.

  1. #831
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Walla Walla in WA State USA
    Posts
    11,208
    Thanked: 4237

    Default

    Always remember what my college auto body instructor said many times "You can't fill a high spot"--I'm sure you understand what he was talking about.

    Lead is great if a bit hard to apply properly and it is heavy. About 'Bondo' the plastic fillers of years gone by aren't even in the same class of today's fillers. With that said, even back in the 70's the standard for 'quality' application was no more than an 1/8th of an inch. I always tried for no more than a 1/16th of an inch sort of a 'shim' coat.

    I was taught that a thin coat of filler was better than really coats of primer/filler as the primer wasn't designed to be applied that thick.

    After graduation and at my first autobody repairman job the other repairmen laughed their asses off when I removed my first dent by hammer off dolly then finished up with peck and filling and didn't use any filler, just sanded the paint into a bevel and then applied a coat of primer/filler. At $13 an hour labor rate with the shop getting 60% of the $13's I still think I was making money as I didn't have to wait for the filler to dry, just the primer. Who knows?
    MikeB52 likes this.
    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

    Kim X

  2. #832
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Orangeville, Ontario
    Posts
    8,442
    Thanked: 4206
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Can’t remember if I’ve ever been excited about getting nails before.
    Name:  DDC1B854-733D-454F-A291-3B3D2625BAD9.jpg
Views: 84
Size:  69.9 KB
    But special, silicon bronze ring nails ain’t something I’ve ever went lookin for before either.
    Supposedly the bees knees when it comes to holding the panels tight on wood for a really long time..
    "Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
    Steven Wright
    https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5

  3. #833
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Walla Walla in WA State USA
    Posts
    11,208
    Thanked: 4237

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB52 View Post
    Can’t remember if I’ve ever been excited about getting nails before.

    But special, silicon bronze ring nails ain’t something I’ve ever went lookin for before either.
    Supposedly the bees knees when it comes to holding the panels tight on wood for a really long time..
    Damn it! So much for getting you a bunch of 'em for Christmas!
    MikeB52 likes this.
    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

    Kim X

  4. #834
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    10,530
    Thanked: 2189

    Default

    I used drywall screws for most all wood to Anything. But I guess not in this situation.
    cudarunner and MikeB52 like this.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  5. #835
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Walla Walla in WA State USA
    Posts
    11,208
    Thanked: 4237

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gasman View Post
    I used drywall screws for most all wood to Anything. But I guess not in this situation.
    Ring shank nails are often used in the construction of wooden pallets----try pulling one sometime. Usually the wood breaks or the heads pull of or crack before the shanks let go.
    Gasman likes this.
    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

    Kim X

  6. #836
    Senior Member blabbermouth nessmuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,954
    Thanked: 581

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB52 View Post
    I’ll be priming everything off car once to allow me to get to all angles. After the lead soldering step. Which is coming up soon. The lead, and when I’d be applying it, meant I couldn’t try to prime stuff first.
    Going to use por15 when the time comes, as on the main frame itself, then one coat of epoxy primer. Then nail everything onto the wood for the final build.
    Use a few more coats of high build epoxy primer, sanding off most of it each time, then base, then clear.
    If I detect any flaws after the second epoxy prime, I can always use a bit of filler,, although I hope not to..
    No such thing as “High Build Epoxy Primer”. Epoxy primer does not sand well. After you apply 2 coats of epoxy...let it go 24 hours...them hit it with a maroon scuff pad...wash the panel...then apply some 2k high build primer surfacer. That stuff will block out nice. If you go through...re-coat bare metal areas with epoxy. I’ve been doing this every day of every year since 1976 ...and will be doing it tomorrow...lol
    PaulFLUS likes this.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to nessmuck For This Useful Post:

    MikeB52 (05-06-2021)

  8. #837
    Senior Member blabbermouth nessmuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,954
    Thanked: 581

    Default

    Also....SEM makes a product called “Rust Trap “ which blows POR 15 away. It’s more user friendly and it sticks to clean bare metal...where POR 15 has to be metal washed and then rinsed with water to stick on clean bare metal. And paint and body filler sticks to neither products...been there...done that.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to nessmuck For This Useful Post:

    MikeB52 (05-06-2021)

  10. #838
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Orangeville, Ontario
    Posts
    8,442
    Thanked: 4206
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Thanks. I’ll look for rust trap up here. Will spray through a 1.5 tip ok? My por 15 is getting old and I need to buy more anyway. Appreciate the tip.
    Figure I go 2 coats epoxy off frame, then use the high build after I nail the panels on?
    I was planning on doing the lead on frame, get everything as close and aligned as I can, then take everything off for the prime.. presuming lead bends a bit it should handle going off and on once? Can’t get Eastwood stuff up here so was going to try rosin core solder as my tinner.
    "Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
    Steven Wright
    https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5

  11. #839
    Senior Member blabbermouth nessmuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,954
    Thanked: 581

    Default

    I’ve never sprayed it before....I just use a brush for bad rusty areas. It flows out smooth and look good. Yup...mock up every panel and get it all fit...gaps and clearance ...so no panels are scraping when opening doors ...trunk lid ...hood.. Then remove for priming ,like you said. Different epoxies ...have different “Windows” . Some have a 3 day window...other have a 7 day window. So plan on getting your epoxy down...wait 24 hours..then top coat with 2k primer. If all hell breaks loose...and you miss that window....just scuff panels...and lay down 1 coat of epoxy ...wait 24 hours...then apply 2k primer surfacer.

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to nessmuck For This Useful Post:

    MikeB52 (05-06-2021)

  13. #840
    Senior Member blabbermouth nessmuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,954
    Thanked: 581

    Default

    Also some epoxy have an induction period ,after you mix it. So read the tech sheet on your choice of epoxy.

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to nessmuck For This Useful Post:

    MikeB52 (05-06-2021)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •