Thread: Design you own razor blank and build your own.

Originally Posted by Bruno

About the hardness...
I really would not be too worried about that. The razors I made were treated by Mike Blue to be 62 +-.5 HRC. That is already very difficult to hone, and more than hard enough to have good edge retention. Also, you can get very good and smooth edges on older sheffield blades which are somewhere between 57- 59 HRC. So while hardness is important, I really would not try and go any higher than 62.

Yeah, I thought about that too and that is why I went with a 1080 steel for my first run. One of the reasons for 1095 was that it is common (and should allow for lots of homebrew info on heat treating from those who use it) and the other reason is stock dimensions. It seems like almost everyone wants either 7/8 or 8/8 razors, and for that to work (unless my calculations are off) the stock would have to be just under 1/4" thick. That said, 1/4 inch stock would allow some error.

I do believe that we will be able to get the 1095 to work, but I am completely open though to everyone's input on this. The only thing it does is affect cost, which may be for better or for worse.

My reservations about the steel is all to do with optimal steel structure at the edge.
My knowledge to date is somewhat theoretical and what I've gleaned from various blade forums/experts, so apologies to the guys that know some things in practice don't matter that much, I can be put right.
Some guys I know have greater control over the HT parameters in which case steel selection dosn't matter that much. From what I understand at the edge maximal martensite and minimal pearlite is the name of the game. Where these two structure are present at the edge the pearlite though hard wears quicker than martensite creating a tooth like edge in time (more so than perhaps desired for a razor???) great for a knife though.
1095 has to be cooled from ct to martensite start in about a second or less, no problem if you got a formulated fast quenchant (wouldn't recomemdt brine). You can double this for 1080 1084 (according to data sheets anyway).
If I'm talking tosh then I'm glad to be put right, as I say it's only theory???
The point I'm making is if you plan to do your own HT with few controls then its probaly safer to go with the simplest steel to start and as well as having fun, there's a good chance of getting a more functional edge to the razor ultimatley.

Deckard

peanut oil works very good, as a fast quenchant...
I've tried it with 0-1, and had a good result so far, although I haven't gotten to shave with the razor yet...
no warpage though, and it cooled extremely fast.

Thanks,
Thought about peanut oil because of high flash point, not sure what temp the vapour jacket forms. Kevin Cashen only recommends formulated quenchants except for cannola oil, Don't know why??? The guy seems to know his stuff when it comes to steel/HT.
When you have spent so much time on you 1st project you are understandably a bit twitchy about f***ing things up at the last hurdle. After all it's nice to make a razor thats a good shave to, perhaps I'm being over cautious?

I am glad this is coming along, I am rather excited...

I was wondering tho, are there any members here who do heat treats? I know we have a few custom knife makers, If they are too busy for something like that, is there somebody they could maybe refer us to? I know that heat treating is not something that I really have the accomodations or know how for.

Talk to mike blue... I would offer, but I'm still experimenting, and my knowledge is far too inadequate as of yet.
Heat treating is not as mysterious as we might think, but getting consistent results takes practice

yah, I have done some pretty extensive research on the topic of heat treating, but I dont feel its something i'd be able to get right the first try...

Those guys that have kilns or use salts (any offers?) it's a piece of cake.
You got a pretty good thermometer with your eye once you know what to look for as long as you keep things simple and it's a satisfying way to do it.
Simple gas forges are cheap and simple to make and worth having a go.
As stated above it requires a bit of practice which I've not had. Been dabbling a bit with old annealed files and known thin ground stock 1084. When broken the texture of the steel is visible and a good indicator if you have got it right. I'm a bit off at the moment I'm getting temp a little on the hot side, this is not a good thing, I am using an unknown quenchant though at place of work. At some point I'll have to take the plunge (pun intended).

I've got a digital kiln and industrial quenchant...

Originally Posted by Philadelph

I've got a digital kiln and industrial quenchant...

okay now I'm jealous...