Thread: Design you own razor blank and build your own.

I really like seraphim's recent design and would nominate that one...
(perhaps with different spine work)

I like Shooter's idea as well.

I think this is a great idea and hopefully will continue to evolve...

I would be great if we could get a mass blade finishing and scale production type assembly line going...

even try to stamp / etch the blade as an SRP member's razor...ideas?

Originally Posted by shooter74743

Hey Seraphin and any others,
What would you think about a double finger monkey tail?

Count me in!

Ronnie

Originally Posted by mark7777

I really like seraphim's recent design and would nominate that one...
(perhaps with different spine work)

I like Shooter's idea as well.

I think this is a great idea and hopefully will continue to evolve...

I would be great if we could get a mass blade finishing and scale production type assembly line going...

even try to stamp / etch the blade as an SRP member's razor...ideas?

I second that!

Ronnie

Bah, been lurking here a while and this one pulls me out.

A 7-day set is on my todo list a year or two from now. My thought was build them all different and more suited to the day of the week (some beastly looking thing for Monday, some relaxed lazy looking thing for Friday, with a hunch-backed 8/8 for Wednesday) complete with different styles of scales. My plan is to bring it all together is to use stamps, scale inlays, and a porton of the blade etch.

Same basic idea though, draw them up in a 2D CAD program, ship them off to a waterjet place down the road, rough grind, stamp, heat treat, fine grind, polish, etch, hone. I'm a year or two away because I want to make a HT oven that I can cast aluminum wheels for belt grinding -- dual use as it were. For "testing" purposes, I could use my existing bench grinder, a propane torch, and some firebricks to do one...

My main interest is stainless. Would there be any chance of CPM-154 or VG-10? My guess is that VG-10 may be next to impossible to procure, and that either will be more expensive.

Thanks for posting the idea, I'll definitely be keeping track of this thread!

Ok guys, last call for sending a PM to get on the list for the first round (there is sure to be another run). Be sure to send me the pm and not just a post on the thread.

The List:

Mike_ratliff
shooter74743
Deckard
RonnieNC
Seraphim
MisterLewisR
Rmaldon240
Strikur
Muirtach
mark7777
sapito318


That being said, we have some good looking designs, but the more the merrier for sure. I like those generic designs Mike_. Does anyone here feel comfortable enough to list some of the reasons for their designs (pros and cons of the sizes, shapes, features like notches, design strengths or flaws, etc.). I think it would be good for everyone to read some of these things, it may help them in their designs.


I'll start, in my first design, I wanted a thumb and index finger notch because I prefer the grip and control I get from them. I did find out that in actual use, the top side notch probably needed a larger radius and maybe to push both notches back a bit on the tang (I notice that seraphim's notches are farther back and it's probably a better fit). Also, the tang is longer than some, but it works well for the size of the blade.

I know some of you have experience with modding blades, so anything you can share will be great.

I want to learn to make my own razors...
this gives me a start I otherwise couldn't get SWMBO to approve.
Hopefully I will make a good enough impression on her and she won't have a cow when I put in a better forge and a belt sander

Here is one take on a traditional round point. I moved the notches back a bit, and decreased the tang length from my first design

If we are throwing it out there, here's my thoughts: The thumb & index finger design off the one Del1r1um shows above, add extra 1/4"-3/8" to monkey tail for ring finger, and use the Seraphim's smiling blade & swayed back design in post #34 in 7/8"-8/8". Wish I knew more about metalurgy, but I don't. Whatever is the latest and greatest in regards to holding a shaving edge is what I am game for.

Thanks again for the great idea and starting this adventure!

Again, I agree with Shooter above...I personally only use use 6/8 +...preferably larger...that is my personal taste aesthetically and functionally...

I think smiling blades makes the blade more unique versus a more generic - traditional - design and I have very modern tastes overall...

I think the notches is another personal aesthetically and functional factor that I prefer...

I think the real question will be about spine work (if any)...i have been debating and looking at spine work from every single razor I see...trying to find the most unique and interesting one so that I may aply it to a custom in the future...

I hope the idea about custom etch / label for SRP will come along as well...I have always thought - no offense to anyone - but the SRP edition design of the TI was very weak...I know someone once mentioned they loved the new icon / razor and thought it would make it a great SRP razor...I say lets try to work that out here and now...who knows what may come after...

anyways...I suggest for something along:
7/8+
sway back
smiling
monkey tail...or at least something a bit longer than the 'standard'...standard razors can be found anywhere...
thumb and/or upper notch

Personally I love worked spines.
I know some guys like cleaner lines, that's cool, I'll go with the flow.
Like the SRP brand idea.
Regarding steel, unless we can get some if you pro razor smiths (Josh Earls maybe) on board I think the simpler the better 1084 maybe 1095 or 01.
In my opinion you have to max out on hardness and temper back to get an edge that's easy on the face.
I have no temp control with my muffle forge all done by eye.
Stainless is a great idea but beyond me at present, I'm cool with hollow grinding though all be it a bit primative.
I like the principle that as many guys who can do the key work, should do it themselves and just have a go, it will develop skill and be fun.

Deckard