Thread: Pressure!

hm, back into confusion.

No, you read it right Glen, with one layer of tape, and with a slightly warped razor I've honed it with extra pressure on toe and heel until I got edge contact all along the edge. The razor is a plain Jane 4/8 Solingen which I've bought for practising, and as expected the bevel is widened at toe and heel. The spine is of course saved by the tape. After this bevel setting was completed as with any blade.

Your answer however brings my question back: How can a rocking/rolling stroke save the day, when the warp is such that no 'roll' along the edge is possible? And what is the win of the heel leading stroke, if we do not make sure that all of the edge make contact first?

respectfully, I have no doubt that your method works, but so far I can't understand it. May I ask you to describe even closer why honing down toe and heel on the concave side is 'unnecessary', and how?

Best,

Sedell

<------ Needs to learn how to do those cool little .gif files

Typing out what I am trying to describe will take way to long and most likely confuse everyone even more

As simply put as possible and trying NOT the make this more confusing

The edge and the spine opposite that part of the edge MUST be in contact at the same time while honing, the entire edge and the entire spine do NOT have to be in contact at all times...

If that makes sense great, if not then disregard because it will just confuse you even more...

Another way to learn is to simply watch the water, keep the wave at the front of the edge or so that the edge is undercutting the water as the edge moves evenly and equally across the hone... That also teaches you the correct pressure to use while honing..


You are getting a good shave ???? Then you are not honing wrong, but you might be wasting steel this is all about practice to get the best results with the least amount of damage..

thanks Glen, for taking the time. I agree with what you are describing, and will take that razor back to the hone, and try to match up what I'm imagining with what I'm doing while honing.

I'm getting really nice edges (even if it sometimes takes a lot of time and trying), and fortunately my razors in use don't have this problem. The undercutting of the water, moving along the edge while rolling/swooping is one of my main indicators of good stroke and pressure.

all the best,

Sedell

Visualize free hand honing a curved knife edge. As you move the knife down the stone, you alter the position of your hands, one comes up the other down, to alter the contact point, keeping the edge that is in contact with the hone perpendicular to the stone edge, maintain the bevel angle and keep the contact point in the center of the stone. That is gymnastics, whatever it takes to keep even contact with the stone, only a small part of the bevel is in contact at a time, not the whole edge.

With a concave razor you make a similar movement, but instead of moving your hands up or down the stone, to compensate for the curve, you move closer or further away from the stone face, as if rocking the blade on the stone, while moving the blade across the stone in a diagonal X motion. Only an inch or so of the blade, (spine and bevel) is in contact with the stone at a time. And the amount of up and down movement needed, is the amount or warp in the spine, just a few thou. As the blade travels the length of the stone it is honed from heel to toe. The water will tell you where you are making contact, as will ink.

Forcing the edge on the stone with pressure in the low grits, can lead to chipping in the higher grits and using pressure with higher grit stones also can also cause chipping.

Sometimes you can get away with it, but altering the contact point allows you not to use pressure to make contact.