Thread: The Hone stone Poll

sorry for the re-post:
I just remembered I own a Smith stone approx 900 - 1000 grit.
I bought it for kitchen and pocket knives

Can I use this if I get my hands on a razor that needs a little more work?

I figure I'll jump from that to the 3000 Henckels.

Originally Posted by DwarvenChef

On a rebuild I use the Shapton glass stones in 1k, 3k, Norton 8k, and shapton GS 16k.

Maintnance honeing uses the Oohira hone, coticule, and than Cro2 leather. I'm still trying to figure out if the Oohira stone is the same as the coticule, I just don't know at this time. I just know that the shave in the above line up is very good, next time I'll cut out one stone and see what happens.

Funny how time changes how you do things...

I just looked up my earlier post on this thread and it's not much of how I do things now

I no longer have the GS 16k and rarely use the coticule, not because I find it faulty, it's a great stone I just don't want to wear it down much so I can hand it down to the next family member in 50+ years

I still use the GS 1k and 3k to set bevels, than move to Ohira, Asagi than test, some razors do better with a Cro2 strop some don't...

Barber hone ( Swaty) for touch up then strop.

Any bevel work and initial hone I have done.

I also use the Norton's but I use a coti bout as my slurry stone,I find it makes the whole affair go much quicker,and the edge has that buttery smooth feeling,I also use a silicone oxide pasted strop,then the Leather.The one thing that keeps me from getting the dreaded "HAD" is the fact that I haven't had the opportunity to play with an Escher,
Which ,lets face it is the holy grail of hones as far as I can tell,so at this point its a rock, and its a rock that can cost $500,for the ones that Ive seen that I want. I have an unblemished reputation of being able to rationalize almost anything,or so I'm told repeatedly by my wife.(you have two wrists how many watches do you need? you have ONE face,...you get the idea) so if I can keep telling myself its just a rock I can control myself.....for now.

P.S. I forgot ,I also have a three line Swaty,in shaving room but I am not sure of where or if this fits in the honing progression,Ive read that the 3 line is the one I wanted,so its there for touch ups. Any one know what grit these are supposed to be?
Thanks
Griz

I'm all over the place with this. I'm still learning my stones. Last time, IIRC, I set the bevel with a Norton 1K, went to a Naniwa 2K, then to an intermediate JNat w Botan slurry, then a coticule (Unicot) and tried several finishers (Nakayama, coti w water, Thurry -- not necessarily in that order) doing HHT after each to see where I was at, then stropped w linen, seat belt, latigo and horsehide. Shave was good, not great.

I'll next probably try a layer of tape and 50-100 on a fine coticule or Escher (a la Bart), strop, and try again.

Sometimes I think I'll just buy the whole Naniwa set from Lynn and use that progression and sell most of my stuff....

Naah. That would be too easy (and heartbreaking).

DMT 600/1200 combo
4/8K Norton combo
Naniwa 12K
CrO pasted strop

Originally Posted by Elon9669

I've had 3 excellent shave with a 1 week old razor doing this:
(keep in mind, I'm new at this straight razor thing)

Zwilling J.A. Henckels Twin Finishing Stone (very soft rocks)
3000 / 8000 - i haven't used the 3000 yet

Shapton 16k about 15 - 20 passes

El Cheapo Jemico canvas backing(i lost count after 100 passes)
then about 20 passes (back and forth equals 1 pass) on the other leather side

i check with a 16x loupe then return to the canvas

I've noticed the more passes on leather, the more visible the canvas lines.
if the canvas lines show up after 20 leather passes I know I don't need the leather, I need to remove more metal.

i repeat the last 3 steps until I can't distinguish the canvas lines then leather 100 final passes.

check loupe for canvas lines. when they are gone I put 2 drops of oil on the blade for safety
Damn that thing is sharp!

I think for tomorrow's shave I'm gonna lower the leather passes. I'm not sure how dull the razor gets after 1 shave.

All you guys in the know, tell me if there is anything else I should consider.
I'm happy with the shaves, but I'm still working on light touches while shaving against the grain

You should strop the razor before use, Canvas/Leather, etc...
I wouldn't hone it prior to each shave. The leather should be sufficient.
Unless I'm misunderstanding.....
When your razor starts to dull, then take out the rocks...

Naniwa 1K
Norton 4/8K
Naniwa 12K or just finish here on coticule and water.
if I used the naniwa 12K then finish on Escher/Oozuku Asagi

Escher is on a slurry with laps until the razor is sticky to the hone.
oozuku is on Tomonagura slurry, about 5 laps of circular strokes both sides about 20 reps each. Then lighter slurry and dilute to water using cricles and X strokes.

Originally Posted by Lynn

220, 221.....whatever it takes..............................

Lynn

Classic, I've used that myself from time to time. Michael Keaton with the chain saw, I get the visual, and it just cracks me up....

Anyway, It depends on the blade, and my mood. Way too many rocks, not enough dull razors...

Normally, I like to use the Naniwa SS w/slurry. After the 12k, I usually hit my Y/G Escher or Nakayama Asagi or Charnley or even a Shapton 16k.
I've even gone to Diamond 1.0, .50 and .25, then back up to crox to smooth out some keeness. Works great...

If not that, I'm using a couple of Coticules. The bevel would be set with a Nani 1k, Norton 1k, or King 1k, then I use a Dressante and finish with La Nouvelle. If I use my Coticules, that's all I use. I shave off them. (yes, of course I strop first....)

I remember this thread, I never answered it for a reason, even back then..

My answer would still be the same today as back then...

I would eventually set the bevel on a Norton 1k, and then decide what set of stones, and which direction I was going from the "feel of the steel" during the bevel set...

Today I might use a King 1k on the full hollows instead of the Norton 1k