Thread: Naniwa 12k vs Sigma 13k

Oh, sorry mate. It was the OP who was thinking of getting the 13K. Apologies.

Sounds like a fun system you and Stu have! Thanks for the info and thoughts. I really am looking forward to trying these Sigmas - got a couple of razors coming in this week for a hone, so I might just see. Although, perhaps it would be better to try them out on my own razors first! lol

James.

Just ordered the Sigma 13K Ceramic. Can't wait to get a couple hundred razors on it and see what it does. I have tried the Hard and Soft 1K's and they worked fine. I did like the Chosera 1K better, but would have no problem recommending the Sigma 1K hard.

Have fun.

I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the 13K Lynn. Could very well push me over the edge to buy one.

James.

Originally Posted by Jimbo

I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the 13K Lynn. Could very well push me over the edge to buy one.

James.

Me too Lynn.

And DaveW, you are such an enabler, you know that?

Seems like sigma 13 would be a perfect polisher after nani 12k. So I can give up finding a reasonable priced charnley forest finally.

Dang it, as if I needed another high grit stone....
Ah well, 13K ordered

Where would one purchase these stones

Originally Posted by Birnando

Dang it, as if I needed another high grit stone....
Ah well, 13K ordered

Yeah, who does, huh?

But who can help it? On the woodworking side, I always tell newbies that they should pick some relatively inexpensive stones that are known to work well and use them and not get caught up in buying lots of stones.

(..and then after I make that suggestion, i usually buy more stones. )

They all work, too, so I can't really describe the draw to try more of them - curiosity, I guess. Getting a new stone and seeing what you can get out of it, and how it behaves is a really satisfying experience for some reason.

Originally Posted by Ozgun

And DaveW, you are such an enabler, you know that?

At least I'm not the only one with the disease

Originally Posted by DaveW

On the woodworking side, I always tell newbies that they should pick some relatively inexpensive stones that are known to work well and use them and not get caught up in buying lots of stones.

Yea, I'm a luthier and still can't keep myself buying more stones. They are more important to me than the wood

Originally Posted by DaveW

....snip....
Scratch pattern is very uniform, and contrary to my expectations, it works well without soaking it (which is a bigger deal for woodworking where you may sharpen at unexpected times or not at all in a shop session). Because it's always releasing particles, it feels like using a natural stone with a slurry all the time.

If you're following it (the 10k) up with a natural hone or a loaded strop, I can't see how it will matter whether or not the abrasive is loose and tumbling - the particles should be too small to do anything a finish hone or a strop wouldn't remove right away.

One thing I have played with recently is slurry on glass.
After lapping a hone I run a razor over it a couple times
and let the slurry gather in the full hollow. I then I let it
drip/ drain on a glass plate I have. Then I hone on it...
slurry on glass..

My point for chiming in is that loose and tumbling bits cut more aggressively
than I would have guessed before trying it. More aggressively I think
than the hone itself. Zero dishing.....

It is astounding to me how long the slurry keeps cutting and
how aggressive it is. Slurry from Naniwa super stone hones quickly
goes grey 2k, 8k, 10k (Chosera), 12k... The final edge is quite good
since the glass is exactly the same I have zero mismatch
in the profile to confuse the set bevel. I rinse clean between
slurry grits.

If a cabinet shop has pre-cut tempered plate glass (float)
shelves of the right size price them. My glass is 4"x14".
Glue feet to the bottom and have at it...

I have also tried common kitchen glass stove top cleaner
and got a darn good shave.