Thread: Hone of the Day

Do you use the BBW after the coti?

Originally Posted by rolodave

Do you use the BBW after the coti?

Yep.! Polishes more than the coti, leaves it a bit keener, too.

I got a whole progression of synthecs, Dave. And their fantastic, but I like the Nats much more. I like sneeking up on my edges, and I believe they leave a stronger edge, this way.

A new ebay capture.

Solingen "Tell" in bone scales. A nice little 11/16 german number with a bit of pitting at the bevel. I took it to the Norton 1K for a bevel set and had to remove more steel than originally anticipated. Slow going on this full hollow but success in the end. Next it will meet the Mizukihara tenjyo Suita for some mid level work.

I've never really just shaved with one razor and lose track of how recently a razor was honed. Usually I'll grab a group of 3 or 5, putter on the stones with 2 then have 1 finished in a tried and true method if my tinkering doesn't work.

So, I had refreshed my Morley on my thuri with slurry and was going to see how it goes with edge retention and comfort. Got 4 shaves in and wanted to try using an eraser for a spot of rust. Managed to bump the edge and but a little ding.

Time to try a second time. Not too upset, a slurried natural edge usually has good comfort but lacking in keenness for me.

-Shapton 7 series 3.00 & 1.20 are stupid fast and took out the ding with ease. A little narrower than I like, so concentration on each stroke is paramount
-Escher thuringian, no slurry. I do work up a slurry to roughen up the surface then wipe it off under running water.
-75 laps linen and a biy over my normal 100 on leather. Really want this one to scream.

Nice, John-I really like that Llama strop. I've got a fine Japanese strop coming from Santa myself-can't wait. I'll probably re-strop every razor in the house lol!

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

Nice, John-I really like that Llama strop. I've got a fine Japanese strop coming from Santa myself-can't wait. I'll probably re-strop every razor in the house lol!

The 30k strop is probably my favorite piece of hardware I have purchased. Everything else I have a purchased a couple 4 or 5 of, but all razors get the same strop.

I dunno if I'll be able to find it, but there's a coticule.be thread and a video buried in there about softening the linen, which comes stiff as a board. The jist of it is to basically bend the strop at 180 deg and roll the bend down the length of the strop, flip and repeat. Removing the leather first, of course. Helps to clamp one end down onto the table. It will soften and flatten with use, but it really helps the initial break in.

Originally Posted by dinnermint

The 30k strop is probably my favorite piece of hardware I have purchased. Everything else I have a purchased a couple 4 or 5 of, but all razors get the same strop.

I dunno if I'll be able to find it, but there's a coticule.be thread and a video buried in there about softening the linen, which comes stiff as a board. The jist of it is to basically bend the strop at 180 deg and roll the bend down the length of the strop, flip and repeat. Removing the leather first, of course. Helps to clamp one end down onto the table. It will soften and flatten with use, but it really helps the initial break in.

Softening the Kanoyama canvas isn’t hard. Remove the cap and throw it in the washer with some towels and a little fabric softener. Note: this will cause it to shorten by about 1”. Lay flat to dry, then re-cement the cap. Alternatively, you can just wash by hand and work it to no end. Takeshi has different instructions on the Kanoyama listings, but they seem a bit of overkill.

Bonus tip: you can raise a little nap and soften the surface by rubbing it lightly with an Atoma 400 or 600. Go easy, it just takes very few strokes, maybe 4-5, do do this.

That is another method, but removing/regluing the leather, shortening and the resultant fraying is why I avoided that step. I tried to follow the recipe Kanayama states, avoiding the leather handle at all costs, but the rolling was far more effective and gave a much softer feedback in 1/20th of the time to wait for a wash cycle.

Honed what I'm pretty sure is my oldest razor, this one needed to wait for calipers and again for the battery for them (turns out Canada customs got super picky about batteries lately so my aliexpress ones didn't make it). Reason being that the spine seemed awful narrow and indeed it was, took two layers of tape to get the bevel angle in range. Kept the scales for now, 400 then 1k sanding and some neatsfoot makes them presentable, might polish a bit further but mainly just wanted to clean it up a bit. Finished on my ozuku koppa after the Naniwa 10k.



The edge held up through the shave, seems like the steel's kept its temper. Works great, though that toe takes some getting used to. The curve is kinda handy in some spots actually.

Apparently it's almost 200 years old?

Originally Posted by manah

According Robert A.Doyle, such razors with stamp "Old English" on the top of the wedge blade were made in Sheffield, about 1825-1830.

Another reference:
https://sharprazorpalace.com/custom-...one-wedge.html

Looks good. Seems that style of grind was made by a lot of different makers, around that time period.

I'm assuming you cleaned it, while it was pinned.?

Tip: sand the old dry surface of the scales with 220, 400,600, and steel wool, before putting them in oil. They'll come out even better