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Thread: Hone of the Day
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09-04-2017, 02:21 PM #1
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09-04-2017, 02:31 PM #2
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Thanked: 459It's more a condition of the stone than it is the lube. If you scuff one up with a diamond hone, it will cut fast. If you don't, it will cut slowly and do more burnish than cut (but never super fine level).
Plus, they are very sensitive to pressure, so once they are fine cutting from lack of lapping, you can still apply a little pressure to get some cut out of them, or apply very little and get a very near finished edge (actually, once settled in, you can shave off of them relatively comfortably, but it's still easier to get final finish from a finish stone).
Lube has more to do with how the stone loads. With water, the stone will load faster. With a heavier oil, the particles will stay floated out of the pores a little better and the stone will stay cleaner (heavier being something like a medium mineral oil or light mineral oil - unscented baby oil is a decent choice). Lube would've been a bigger deal in the past when it wasn't as convenient to lap a stone to restore its cutting power.
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nicknbleeding (09-05-2017)
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09-08-2017, 12:26 PM #3
Yes mine is more of a burnished stone.
I have yet to go back and lap it since the first time, and don't slurry it anymore. I've honed my kitchen knives on it as well as multiple razors, and its still true, and flat.
I have thought of shaving off it, but I know I'm not going to enjoy it, like I do from a true finisher. Spoiled myself.[emoji56]Mike
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09-08-2017, 04:40 PM #4
Thanks fellas.
A Washita is one I don't have but need to try. I was looking at one but I missed it.
The kiita is a good all around rock.
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09-08-2017, 09:38 PM #5
A Washita is a very different animal in its properties, composition, and abilities. I think there is more to these stones than we realize.
What a curse be a dull razor; what a prideful comfort a sharp one
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outback (09-08-2017)
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09-08-2017, 09:53 PM #6
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Thanked: 459It is the only stone that I know of that can actually set a bevel and finish a razor. Not finish like a thuri, but it can finish an edge.
Very sensitive to:
* steel hardness
* surface preparation
* pressure from honing
They can be brash, or they can be mild on an edge, depending on what you do with them.Last edited by DaveW; 09-08-2017 at 09:58 PM.
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outback (09-08-2017)
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09-08-2017, 10:32 PM #7
That's why it will always be a part of my rotation. Its so versatile in its abilities, and I love the feed back.
It tells me when a bevel is true, if there's a telltale skip during the pass, the bevel isn't joined completely. But a constant, velvety draw through the pass...game on.!! [emoji41]Mike
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The Following User Says Thank You to outback For This Useful Post:
Steel (09-08-2017)
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09-08-2017, 10:55 PM #8What a curse be a dull razor; what a prideful comfort a sharp one
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09-04-2017, 02:50 PM #9
Oil or slurry works at 1-2 K, then water for 5-6, pure glycerin bumps it to around 8K. Just a guess, but that's how it looks in a loupe. But the right amount of pressure , or lack of is needed for that,
and a lot more time. That's why I go back to the synthetics and Nats to finish.
It works, but my hands can't put up with that much, anymore. But I'll do it on times when they aren't giving me any trouble. I'm not that old, but my body is. Degeneration of the cervix scews with the C6 & C7. That's where the nerves come out that control muscles, and sense of touch, or feel. The tip of my right index finger is numb, all the time, and my arm will lock up in certain positions ( like a cramp or charlie horse ). Sometimes turning a screw driver will send pain into my hand, the likes of hitting yourself with a large hammer. So I make the best out of the good days.
Then there's the spinal stenosis.
That's another story.
Getting old...golden years...!!
Bah.. Someone lied.[emoji31]Mike
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nicknbleeding (09-05-2017)
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09-05-2017, 12:42 AM #10
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- Mooresville NC
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Thanked: 133Touch ups on the puma. Henckles didn't reach that edge so I went to mejiro and then tomo maybe that will do the trick.