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    Senior Member blabbermouth nicknbleeding's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    Thank you. She's my ace of hearts, in any progression.
    By changing the lube ( oil, water, glycerin ) I can make it act as three different grit stones. Then you can also slurry it, for a bevel cutter. But its still quite slow, so I bevel set on the 1K Chosera, then the Washita W/ water.
    That puts me at 5-7K, then to 8&12 to polish it out, and either a Escher, or Thurigan for the icing on the cake.
    I feel the Washita gives me a stronger edge, over the synthetics of that grit.

    Maybe its just me, but I love this stone.
    Oh..! And what it does to a kitchen knife, is heavenly.
    Which lube creates which abrasives? I have a few washita and sounds like its worth a try.

    Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    It's more a condition of the stone than it is the lube. If you scuff one up with a diamond hone, it will cut fast. If you don't, it will cut slowly and do more burnish than cut (but never super fine level).

    Plus, they are very sensitive to pressure, so once they are fine cutting from lack of lapping, you can still apply a little pressure to get some cut out of them, or apply very little and get a very near finished edge (actually, once settled in, you can shave off of them relatively comfortably, but it's still easier to get final finish from a finish stone).

    Lube has more to do with how the stone loads. With water, the stone will load faster. With a heavier oil, the particles will stay floated out of the pores a little better and the stone will stay cleaner (heavier being something like a medium mineral oil or light mineral oil - unscented baby oil is a decent choice). Lube would've been a bigger deal in the past when it wasn't as convenient to lap a stone to restore its cutting power.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    It's more a condition of the stone than it is the lube. If you scuff one up with a diamond hone, it will cut fast. If you don't, it will cut slowly and do more burnish than cut (but never super fine level).

    Plus, they are very sensitive to pressure, so once they are fine cutting from lack of lapping, you can still apply a little pressure to get some cut out of them, or apply very little and get a very near finished edge (actually, once settled in, you can shave off of them relatively comfortably, but it's still easier to get final finish from a finish stone).

    Lube has more to do with how the stone loads. With water, the stone will load faster. With a heavier oil, the particles will stay floated out of the pores a little better and the stone will stay cleaner (heavier being something like a medium mineral oil or light mineral oil - unscented baby oil is a decent choice). Lube would've been a bigger deal in the past when it wasn't as convenient to lap a stone to restore its cutting power.
    Yes mine is more of a burnished stone.
    I have yet to go back and lap it since the first time, and don't slurry it anymore. I've honed my kitchen knives on it as well as multiple razors, and its still true, and flat.
    I have thought of shaving off it, but I know I'm not going to enjoy it, like I do from a true finisher. Spoiled myself.[emoji56]
    Mike

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    Senior Member blabbermouth engine46's Avatar
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    Thanks fellas.
    A Washita is one I don't have but need to try. I was looking at one but I missed it.
    The kiita is a good all around rock.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Steel's Avatar
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    A Washita is a very different animal in its properties, composition, and abilities. I think there is more to these stones than we realize.
    What a curse be a dull razor; what a prideful comfort a sharp one

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    It is the only stone that I know of that can actually set a bevel and finish a razor. Not finish like a thuri, but it can finish an edge.

    Very sensitive to:
    * steel hardness
    * surface preparation
    * pressure from honing

    They can be brash, or they can be mild on an edge, depending on what you do with them.
    Last edited by DaveW; 09-08-2017 at 09:58 PM.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steel View Post
    A Washita is a very different animal in its properties, composition, and abilities. I think there is more to these stones than we realize.
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    It is the only stone that I know of that can actually set a bevel and finish a razor. Not finish like a thuri, but it can finish an edge.

    Very sensitive to:
    * steel hardness
    * surface preparation
    * pressure from honing

    They can be brash, or they can be mild on an edge, depending on what you do with them.
    That's why it will always be a part of my rotation. Its so versatile in its abilities, and I love the feed back.
    It tells me when a bevel is true, if there's a telltale skip during the pass, the bevel isn't joined completely. But a constant, velvety draw through the pass...game on.!! [emoji41]
    Mike

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Steel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    It is the only stone that I know of that can actually set a bevel and finish a razor. Not finish like a thuri, but it can finish an edge.

    Very sensitive to:
    * steel hardness
    * surface preparation
    * pressure from honing

    They can be brash, or they can be mild on an edge, depending on what you do with them.
    Well DAVE, I may have found a technique to finish a razor on one as good as any thuringian or other finisher with MINIMAL effort and no pastes. Not jumping back and forth and tweeking with a strop either but I need to play around some more. I will shoot you a PM.
    What a curse be a dull razor; what a prideful comfort a sharp one

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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicknbleeding View Post
    Which lube creates which abrasives? I have a few washita and sounds like its worth a try.

    Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
    Oil or slurry works at 1-2 K, then water for 5-6, pure glycerin bumps it to around 8K. Just a guess, but that's how it looks in a loupe. But the right amount of pressure , or lack of is needed for that,
    and a lot more time. That's why I go back to the synthetics and Nats to finish.
    It works, but my hands can't put up with that much, anymore. But I'll do it on times when they aren't giving me any trouble. I'm not that old, but my body is. Degeneration of the cervix scews with the C6 & C7. That's where the nerves come out that control muscles, and sense of touch, or feel. The tip of my right index finger is numb, all the time, and my arm will lock up in certain positions ( like a cramp or charlie horse ). Sometimes turning a screw driver will send pain into my hand, the likes of hitting yourself with a large hammer. So I make the best out of the good days.
    Then there's the spinal stenosis.
    That's another story.
    Getting old...golden years...!!
    Bah.. Someone lied.[emoji31]
    Mike

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    Touch ups on the puma. Henckles didn't reach that edge so I went to mejiro and then tomo maybe that will do the trick.
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