Thread: New dovo won't shave comfortably.

Rest the back side on the spine and focus on the edge, as long as you don’t move the knob it will stay in focus for a quick look. Slide it on the spine, lifting up slightly to not strike the edge to check the bevel from heel to toe.

The foam helps for orientation, to protect the edge and is easily replaceable.

Just my opinion, but I've never really got a good shave from the two Dovo razors I own. The Dovo Best Quality I started with was OK, but the Dovo Bismarck, pro-honed by three different people, just never made the grade. Blade seemed to always skip, always huge patches of stubble left or an overall inadequate shave, it just sits in a box.

Maybe it's just the one I received, but Dovo has been known to have QA issues, and I personally would never buy another one. Just my opinion....

edited to add: just noticed you're having trouble with a Dovo Bismarck, same as mine...my take is it's not you, it's the razor IMO

Update:
So I started back over, without circles. Using 45 light to blade weight only pressure, strokes. followed by 10 x strokes with no pressure. No slurry at all. Moved on to a king 4k doing the same, then a king 6k with the same, then back to shapton 8k but moving down to 30 half strokes on each side. Followed by 10 x strokes with no pressure, moved onto an m5 with 30 half strokes followed by 10 x strokes. Next I very, very gently used a scrap piece of leather to remove the foil edge. (The same motion you would use to kill an edge on the corner of a wet stone) followed by only 6 gentle x strokes to bring the edge back. Then strop 15 laps on flax linen with cromox, then 15 laps on the leather. AMAZING! ! ! Smooth shave, very little to no irritation at all, and the edge held up throughout the shave. Using synthetic stones seems to be very effective, and fast. I have a coticule in the mail right now and I'll be interested to compare the edge difference and quality of shave and how long the hone sessions take. Thanks for the input gentlemen, I really appreciate it!

Glad you got an edge, the original bevel was probably not fully set. You are also most probably not doing enough laps in the progression, to fully remove the deep 1k stria, especially from circles.

They may come back to bite you with a crumbling edge, after a few days of stropping.

Once you set the bevel, you have to remove all the deep 1k stria with the transition stone, whatever that is, (4k for you) and begin polishing the bevel and straightening the edge with some pressure. Deep 1k stria will lead to chipping where it reaches the edge. Then, it is just a matter of removing the previous stones stria with the next stone in the progression.

I would, skip the 6k and go to the 8k. You don’t need half laps on the 15k you want to finish the edge with smooth finish laps on the 15k. I would Joint the edge after the 8k and put a new edge on with the 15 and not cork after, for a stronger, straighter edge with at least 30-40 laps, the stria on the bevel and edge will tell, strop on just leather to finish.

Now that you know you can build an edge, the challenge becomes to making an edge that is keen, comfortable, and strong, that will last…

Just a light jointing, and after everything else, only leather with no .5 on linen? Would it be better to go from 1k to 3k instead of 4? I have a nice 3k,..... then on to 8k? Or would you say 1 to 4 is best?

One more question as well.

I'm thinking about getting a Japanese natural finisher, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. I keep seeing level 4, level 5...etc. I'd like a fast cutting finisher that makes great edges, but not over the top sharp....moderately aggressive edges I guess. Is it possible to be that picky about a finisher or am I getting crazy?

Either will work, depending on the stone. It is one of the most important stones in creating an edge, because it removes the deep stria and begins the straightening of the edge. Try them both and see which works best. Just stay on the stone until all the 1k stria is removed. Jointing the edge and resetting on the 3 or 4k also makes for a straighter stronger edge.

The difference in grit size is not that much. Where they will make a difference is, when you use them to bevel set, when you don’t need a full 1k bevel set. There, the 3k make makes a good bevel setter, as can a good 4k with a few more laps.

I didn’t see you had Chrome Ox on your linen, but try it without then, If you need it, (feels harsh) strop on the Chrome Oxide for comfort. You can always strop on paste for comfort or revive and edge.

I often strop on a Canvas Sailcloth, Chrome Oxide strop, prior to going to the finish stone 20-30 laps, Joint then re-set the edge on the finisher. Strop on leather or CBN to finish.

So all naturals are a completely different animal because each stone is different, even the same stones from the same mine. It is very easy to sink a lot of money chasing an edge, by chasing natural stones, when it’s not the stone. Fast and great edges in a finisher are mutually exclusive, a finisher need not be fast, if the edge is properly prepared, it takes what it takes.

As a stone collector, with hundreds of natural stone, first master honing with synthetics, I mean fully understand what is happening with an edge at the various stages of the honing process and how to diagnose and work around problems. Then experiment with naturals, at the very least you will be able to shave with the knowledge of synthetics and it will make your natural path much more enjoyable and successful. There is not much performance improvement above a 15k Shapton in the right hands.

The problem I have with Jnat stone rating is, that is one person’s opinion. If you do go down the Jnat path, find a good stone provider, stick with him and do what he recommends, but first, do your homework. There are tons of great Jnat threads here and on other forums, consensus is a good indicator, as is longevity. Some of these guys have been around a long time…

Sage advice, often given… It’s not the stone…

Next chance you get read Glens(gssixgun special) signature before you go buying more stones. Tc

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the info. Just learning sly the jointing maneuver has improved my finish by leaps and bounds. Plus I finally got my hands on a nice strop. Previously I was using possibly the world's worst leather strop. I do really like the flax canvas strop I made myself. It works really well. I guess I didn't think in the beginning that the leather quality was very important. With just those two changes, I had my first completely irritation free straight razor shave today.....6 months later...sheesh.