Thread: Naniwa Hones - Need some Help !!!

Actually I've heard they have a deal with the USG and Blackwater to execute extraordinary rendition on troublemaking customers on the internet - all parties have agreed it's best if they just dissapear quietly.

No problem, Honing can be frustrating at times ....

Ask me about the 4 1/2 hours I spent over two nights last week, getting a Greaves Wedge to finally shave right but hey after 150 years I guess it deserved to be a Royal Pain in the Butt

Say, Glen,

Very interesting point about the 1K, and I wonder what other stones I may need, as the 5k is my coarsest one. Would I jump from the 1 to the 5k, or should I have one or two or more stones inbetween?

There is a huge difference between "Need" and "Want"

I "Need" to be able to have a 1k level, a 4k level, and an 8k level, to hone any razor...

Those of course are approximate grits and some people use one stone to make all of them...

But to hone all razors you have to a bevel setter, a sharpener, and a polisher...

After that it is all about "Want" I want a Finisher, I want a Pasted strop, I want a super low grit Restorer etc: etc: etc: thus we then have, and catch, the dreaded disease HAD....

You have to understand that for years most everyone used a Norton 4/8 that was it, some of us that restored had the 220/1 also...
The Coticule was a mystical stone that some used, and Eschers and Japanese finishers were just Myths spoken about by the Honing Gods LOL

Lynn's honing/bevel setting videos add new information.

Would I use the same technique in setting the bevel with my razor, given that it has a smile shaped blade?

Originally Posted by BrentonC

Would I use the same technique in setting the bevel with my razor, given that it has a smile shaped blade?

Ahh, a smiling blade - that *definitely* makes things more difficult, especially if it's a Sheffield. Really not your best razor to learn to hone on - best to learn on a hollow-ground, straight-spine, probably Solingen, and ideally without too much previous hone-wear. There are lots of ways to deal with the smiling curvature, but the simple answer is you have to give more attention to the heel and toe separately.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by BrentonC

Lynn's honing/bevel setting videos add new information.

Would I use the same technique in setting the bevel with my razor, given that it has a smile shaped blade?

Lynn has recommended an x stroke heel leading with the blade at 45 degrees relative to the hone. I've had success with that on smiling blades and also the rolling x which is talked about in this thread here.

For a lot of great info on many honing topics "Lynn Abrams On Honing" in the SRP Wiki here has great info if you read through it. Excerpts from various threads that were put together.

I saw this X stroke in one of Lynn's honing videos, and have tried to do that.

Obviously the need for this technique variation is bound to complicate the bevel setting procedure with smiling blade.

How nice it would be if I could just do as he demonstrates in that bevel video with the 40 rotations, one side and the other.

I'm guessing that'd make for too much pressure on the middle portion of the blade, and not enough at the heel and toe.

Originally Posted by BrentonC

I saw this X stroke in one of Lynn's honing videos, and have tried to do that.

Obviously the need for this technique variation is bound to complicate the bevel setting procedure with smiling blade.

How nice it would be if I could just do as he demonstrates in that bevel video with the 40 rotations, one side and the other.

I'm guessing that'd make for too much pressure on the middle portion of the blade, and not enough at the heel and toe.

I've honed some serious smiling blades from bevel set through sharpening. On the really radical examples I've gone with the rolling x from start right on through to finish. Like these. Extreme examples but the point is that it works.

Wow, Jim,

Those are some CURVACEOUS babes. I mean blades!

So, when you set the bevel, did you do as Lynn does in that video, blade flat on the 1000grit for 40 rotations on each side,

or, when you say roll, ... yeah, I'm not sure I get the picture. Perhaps you mean you roll it by starting with the handle closer to the ground, and raise it up, through the stroke, so that a different part of the blade contacts the hone throughout the stroke? Is that what you' mean?