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The idea is to cure the barber hone after lapping by coating hone with Vaseline. For mine most of the Vaseline was absorbed overnight. I applied a second coat and left sit for a couple months. The cure helps seal the grain of hone backup after lapping I'm told. Sounded good so I'm doing it and did they turn out nice or what?Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwflight
Attachment 232188
Sure they look nice but do you intend to use them?
I suppose they will be oil only after that.
Very nice, they look brand new.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmercer
That must be why the instuctions on a Fast n Fine baber hone I found , said to use lather only and not water. Thankyou.
Yes. They are less expensive than a 10k or 12k finishing hone. I plan on using shaving lather. They will stay clean. From what I understand (haven't done it yet) water will have a coarser hone and the lather produces a finer hone.Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwflight
Hi
I got curious about the play in my Wade & Butcher wedge razor.
I took it apart and found 14 gage copper wire was used as the rivet in the hinge.
I did not take any pics of the bare blade but the hole after cleaning would accept a 10 ga bare wire.
I ordered in a couple different kits for riveting scales on razors. The pins supplied are very small.
How are these small wires supposed to work. I think the resulting razor would be very sloppy.
The wire shown in the pic is a 10 gege wire.
I went ahead anf installed the scales with the 10 gage wire. It looks OK I guess.
Attachment 232257
If it works fer ya, it werks fer me.
It is super common for the holes in old sheffeild blades to be a little sloppy. There are several methods to correct it if it really bothers you, however it has been like that for a very long time. You can use it as is, repine it with 1/16 rod and standard collars or go to bigger hardware, which I have never seen well executed or fill the hole by either using a two part metal filler of expoxying a brass tube with a 1/16" inside diameter. There is a tutorial in the workshop master sticky about this issue and resolving it. I believe sharptonn uses some kind of a rivet and the drills them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwflight
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...zed-pivot.html
Hi
Thanks for your response.
If I decide to make scales I will keep your suggestion in mind
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwflight
When those razors were made the pivot was punched out while hot, not drilled, hence some pretty odd & large shapes.
It makes little difference to the range of movement as the scales are a friction fit on the sides of the tang.
You can of course force play into it & I believe that this is why there is such a large gap between the toe & the wedge in original scales but friction usually holds things mostly in place.
That is 100% correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
