Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by RMarsh

Working on my first restore at the moment, it's a F. Reynolds wedge that I cleaned up, and I'm working on the scales now, g-10 and recon stone. I had a question, what do you use to polish up g-10 after sanding? Which compounds or polishes work best either by hand or by Dremel? Thanks!

Attachment 151603

I cant wait to see the end item!!! I just got my wood to make 4 sets of scales! My first 4 custom scales!!!

Front/back photos, after 1000-grit hand sanding:




I know... it's like JimmyHAD often says: "Polishing a turd." I'm still surprised that 150-grit sandpaper didn't do the trick with the defects.

Originally Posted by JBHoren

Front/back photos, after 1000-grit hand sanding:




I know... it's like JimmyHAD often says: "Polishing a turd." I'm still surprised that 150-grit sandpaper didn't do the trick with the defects.

Man that's a beautiful blade!

It's been a long long time since I last completed a restore, so I have finally stolen some time to work on a few of the 'easier' blades I had on the bench.

First up is a nice 6/8 Taylor's Eye Witness 'The 3000' - an interesting Sheffield blade with a uniquely 'Japanese' feel to it. It will be wearing some new black horn scales (not pictured) that are 99% finished, just need to be thinned out a little (currently around 3.7mm thick, going for 3mm).

Next is a nice little 9/16 Klas Törnblom that will also wear black horn - the scales are done, (the ones above the blade) just need to get a final polish on the blade.

The next blade down is a Genco 'Honor' - it's original bakelite(?) scales had shrunk to the point where the blade hit the wedge, so I made some new honey horn scales by tracing the originals, albeit longer (Shown below the Honor). Stupidly though I didn't account for the vertical shrinkage of the original scales curve, so the heel of the blade sticks out when the blade is mocked up in place. looks like I'll be making another set for this blade!

Finally I have a 6/8 Gebrüder Korte 'Trademark' - the original scales were in the process of eating the steel (cell-rot) so I have made some new ones from honey horn. The originals had some nice bolsters on the wedge end, not sure if I will attempt to affix them to the new scales though, we'll see.

Look out for the finished razors! Hopefully they won't take too many years ;-)

Originally Posted by JBHoren

Front/back photos, after 1000-grit hand sanding

I know... it's like JimmyHAD often says: "Polishing a turd." I'm still surprised that 150-grit sandpaper didn't do the trick with the defects.

Those aren't defects! They are beauty marks. A bit of work on the backside tail, done!

Front/back photos, after 3000-grit hand sanding:




Now, on to the Micro-Mesh @ 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 grits. But first, a late brunch followed by some reading about How To Use these "Soft Touch" abrasive pads.

No! I'm not going to do that... use the Micro-Mesh, that is. It seems the MM grits do not correspond to the "normal" 3M sandpaper grits (see here, for a grit comparison chart). Back in this 2009 thread -- "3M wet dry vs. micro-mesh grits" -- experienced SRP players opined that even the MM 12000-grit pad left scratches on a mirror finished blade.

OK; time to eat.

I'm working on some spalted pecan scales to replace the acrylic scales I made last year on my WM Elliot. So far they look nice. No pictures yet but I should have it pinned together today. y'all do some nice work!

Today I attached the handles to a kitchen knife for a colleague (no pics because it is clamped in the vise).
I ground 3 post-HT razor to the point where they pass the thumb nail test. Thhose are now ready to finish grinding.
And I heat treated 5 niolox kitchen knives and a smiling wedge razors.

Some clean work there Bruno.

Bought myself an inexpensive Yanagiba so of course it needs straightening & the back (ura) needs doing.
Better get cracking I s'pose.