Thread: What are you working on?

I wish I possessed a razor let alone a strop that was worth putting in a safe.

Tally Ho! This is one I have had for a bit, was never happy with my blade finish. Always wanted to get the finish Tuzi gets. This is about as close as I can get. Had to leave some pitting but that's ok would rather have the tang stamp. Next is the scales, og horn a bit warped and a crack. Maybe a couple so on to those.

Since I am on my phone and have issues finding what I need, these scales have a slight warp. Should I first fix warp, then repair cracks? Or fix what I need to then flatten and soak in neats foot? Thanks guys

The blade looks terrific, Eric! Nice warm glow on the blade face, you done good there!

Originally Posted by ejmolitor37

Since I am on my phone and have issues finding what I need, these scales have a slight warp. Should I first fix warp, then repair cracks? Or fix what I need to then flatten and soak in neats foot? Thanks guys

I typically flatten, repair, soak.

Originally Posted by outback

I typically flatten, repair, soak.

That is what made sense just wanted confirmation. Ca to glue the cracks? Epoxy seems to thick in my mind. Thanks Mike.


Thanks Tuzi, I finally dug up some red scotchbrite I had hidden from myself. So I sanded to 2k then went to 1k and didn't care for that back to 800 and was getting happier finally tried the scotchbrite on a cork pretty pleased

It may not sound right, but satin finish can be very hard to produces. I have never felt like I have arrived at a very nice sarion finish. It always looks a little scratchy. You done did good.

This still has scratches in it, I suppose I could compare it to my PRC Leviathen. I hope it does not spot like that razor did :/ easy enough to touch up I guess
I tried white scotchbrite as well with no result what so ever. I know that stuff with white diamond metal polish work wonders on aluminum but does not really affect steel. Red worked well though.

All my satin finishes have scratches, that's what makes the effect. The trick is to get them uniform enough in depth and direction, spine to edge, so that none stand out too much from the rest.

The last step for me is to go back to a high grit sandpaper with some sort of polish, usually 1 micron lapping paste, and work spine to edge softening the scratches. Makes it glow. Here you can still see the direction of the scratches but nothing that makes you say "hey your blade is scratched!"


I've noticed this type of finish will get spots easier than a mirror if left untreated. I put the Tuf-Glide on there and it works well.

How about a satin/brush.
I kinda stumbled upon this while trying to match Tuzi's finish. [emoji56]