"Broken Blade Rescue Mission" Thread!

[outback]

Not sure. Lead keeps comming to mind, even though tin melts at even lower temps.
Soldering iron?

[MikeT]

Not sure. Lead keeps comming to mind, even though tin melts at even lower temps.
Soldering iron?

Thanks for the reply outback. Over 70 views and not one reply, started wondering if I said something wrong. Probably just a boring topic now as not many guys spend time saving broken blades.
I thought about soldering iron but heard that it has heavy metals or chemicals...? But really probably not much skin contact at all with that part of the blade, so probably okay.
JB Weld? Epoxy with metal shavings? I'll look into tin too.
Thanks for replying, I really appreciate it.

[outback]

My only concern would be heat. Check a product called marine text.
Its a appoxy that i use for repairing cracked blocks in the boating business. Just a thought

[outback]

My only concern would be heat. Check a product called marine text.
Its a appoxy that i use for repairing cracked blocks in the boating business. Just a thought

Thats marine tex.

[MikeT]

Okay will do. I've seen that at my buddies boatyard but haven't worked on boats for a few years. My experience was more with fiber glass and interior woodwork, not much on marine engines at all. Done a fair amount of piping and through-hulls, but never used that product I don't think.
Yeah I was wondering about heat issues too. Maybe quench it quick? The epoxy with metal shavings might be the trick.

[eddy79]

If you have the tip still you could make a pile of filings for the epoxy from the same razor. Pity you can't peen or squeeze the tip shut.

Actually there is a video somewhere showing heat block paste .could cover around leaving the tip exposed to heat and squeeze/peen closed. Maybe a little ott though.

[outback]

Okay will do. I've seen that at my buddies boatyard but haven't worked on boats for a few years. My experience was more with fiber glass and interior woodwork, not much on marine engines at all. Done a fair amount of piping and through-hulls, but never used that product I don't think.
Yeah I was wondering about heat issues too. Maybe quench it quick? The epoxy with metal shavings might be the trick.

It does come in white, black and gray

[MikeT]

[QUOTE=eddy79;1530941]If you have the tip still you could make a pile of filings for the epoxy from the same razor. Pity you can't peen or squeeze the tip shut.

Actually there is a video somewhere showing heat block paste .could cover around leaving the tip exposed to heat and squeeze/peen closed. Maybe a little ott though.[QUOTE]

Oh man! I saw that heat block paste on an infomercial years ago and looked for it to no avail.
I'll do a search for it.
I thought about peening it closed but worry about breaking the blade.
Still have the tip. Could use the soft metal of spine for shavings..

[MikeT]

It does come in white, black and gray

Doesn't come in clear? Maybe white would work. I've got gorilla epoxy. Probably need to shop around.

[engine46]

If you have the tip still you could make a pile of filings for the epoxy from the same razor. Pity you can't peen or squeeze the tip shut.

Actually there is a video somewhere showing heat block paste .could cover around leaving the tip exposed to heat and squeeze/peen closed. Maybe a little ott though.

The heat block paste is in my last blog:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/membe...rped-tang.html

Also, how big is the gap? it there anyway you could tap some solid lead solder to fill it in?