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Thread: WIP: W.G. Wilton

  1. #31
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Looking much smoother.
    So let me get this....You are loading greaseless on a MDF wheel?
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  2. #32
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    Yes sir, poor mans grinding wheel. I wouldn’t dare do this on a hollow grind, though I’ll probably try on an already broken blade.

    I get a few passes on the wheel then need to dip the blade or wrap it in a damp rag (too much water on the greaseless reconstitutes it, rubs onto the blade, and increases friction. It’s not as terrible as it sounds though.

    Definitely a learning curve and some kinks to work out. I thought about leather wrapped wheels but then you probably couldn’t grind the blade edge leading, which I found is far easier to present the hollow parallel to the face of the wheel.

    The reason the first go around sucked was because I had high spots on the wheel where more greaseless deposited in some areas on the wheel causing a speed bump and in turn caused low spots in the grind. What I found was to just deal with them until I was almost where I wanted it for a given grit then used the back of a sawzall blade and knocked the high spots of greaseless off then did as many passes as I needed to get the hollows flat and grinding lines consistent.
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  3. #33
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    The 240 grit is surprisingly aggressive. Had I experience with this setup prior to starting the project I would have probably started with 240 and possibly dropped down to 180.

    One thing is to keep the wheel freshly loaded and fully dried from loading the greaseless. A heat gun greatly reduced the standing around time, about 10 seconds of full blast heat gun on a spinning wheel. Really cuts down on heat build up.

    I need to try some 80 grit, I’m thinking I’ll be able to possibly make an rso by stock removal.

  4. #34
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    A cool idea. I wonder if that black greaseless 'glue' would be of any help?
    I had learned the harder the wheel, the better. Never thought about wood or wood product.
    Looks like you are on the right track.

  5. #35
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    I want to try the glue, hoping it will help the greaseless go on more evenly.
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  6. #36
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    If you had mentioned it I could have sent that too. Oh Well.
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  8. #37
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    It works great in other things. Bound to help?
    I reckon I could send some glue-stuff, if needed!
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  10. #38
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    No need, but thank you for the offer, I have plans on making an order from Caswell’s in the near future.

  11. #39
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Seems anything you buy is way too much stuff~!
    Let me know.
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  13. #40
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    Guys using traditional belt grinders say to drop ver low to remove material and then come back up to remove the marks. All major shaping is done on very low grit belts. 60 and 80 are numbers I’ve heard them talking about and times when 30 is used. So by that logic if you are essentially grinding and using the greaseless compound as an abrasive, then very low grit for stock removal makes sense. Also the high grits generate a ton of heat.
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